GIFT  OF 
prof .    E. J.V.ickson 


MAIN  LJBHAHY-AGRICULTUKE  DEFT 


:1     A     IH-X.'KI  I' !'•  "I-      I'lll,     ISKSI 

FJiriT,    <;ATitElltNG, 

<Vi;iN<.     A>"I'     I'UT^I'ARIX;   TITK.    FIIUJT 
F'ti;     SHIPMENT     \.VI>    MAUKET 


GBORGE     W. 


aas,  m.  IK, 


irort.ipnltural  Editor  of  the  ST:N  ANI 
PRKSS,  JiM.'.k.-innvjllp.  Flw 


PRINTED  AND  PUBLiSHElJ 

BY    CHARLES    W.    DACOSfA^ 


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JACKSONVILLE,     FLORIDA, 


ARLINGTON 

NURSERIES 


Tropical  and   Semi-Tropical 


Roses,    Deciduous    and    Evergreen 
Shrubs  and  Flowering  Plants. 


New  and  Choice  Varieties  of 

Trees , 

Made  a  Specialty. 


Send  for  Descriptive  Catalogue  for 

Fall  of  1880  and  Spring  of  1881. 

Albert  I  Bidwell, 

Jacksonville,  Florida. 


'ictson., 


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J 


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JGE 


3ST    VARIETIES 

:NG  AND 


M.    D., 


NU: 


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Roses,    D 
Shrubs 


N, 


Send 

Fall  of  : 


Jacksonville,  Florida. 


Wieksbn,, 


A   TREATISE 


THE    CULTURE 


THE  ORANGE 


—   TOGETHER   — 

WITH    A    DhSC'llIPTlON    OF    SOME   OF    THE   BEST     VARIETIES 
OF     THE     FRUIT,      GATHERING,      CURING    AND 
PREPARING  THE    FRUIT    FOR    SHIP- 
MENT   AND    MARKET 

BY    GEORGE   W,    DAVIS,    M.    D., 

Horticultural  Editor  of  the  SUN  AND 
PRESS,  Jackson ville,  Fla. 


PUBLISHED  AND  PRINTED 

BY    CHARLES    W.     DACOSTA, 

JACKSONVILLE,    FLORIDA. 

1881. 


MAIM  ' 


Entered  According  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1881,  by 

GEORGE  W.  DAVIS, 
In  the  Office  of  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


TO  THE   READER. 

In  presenting  this  little  Treatise  on  Orange  Culture  to 
the  notice  of  a  discerning  public,  the  writer  desires  to 
acknowledge  his  inability  to  do  exact  justice  to  the  subject. 
It  is  not  a  compilation,  but  a  plain,  comprehensive  state- 
ment of  facts — not  theories — as  he  understands  them  ;  the 
ivsult  of  ten  years  close  observation  and  practical  experi- 
ence. Should  this  little  work  meet  a  long-felt  want  of  a 
practical  guide  in  orange  culture,  and  be  the  means  of 
speeding  the  good  work  along  to  a  successful  issue,  the 
highest  aim  and  object  will  have  been  attained,  by 
Yours  truly, 

GEORGE  W.  DAVIS. 

Jacksonville,  Florida,  January  1881. 


CULTURE   OF   THE    ORANGE. 


LOCATION    OF    GROVE. 

The  most  important  consideration  when  starting  an 
orange  grove,  is  location.  This  should  be  near  some  sure 
and  permanent  line  of  transportation,  or  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  some  proposed  line  which  will  be  sure  to  be 
established  in  the  near  future.  There  are  at  present  many 
fine  bearing  groves  scattered  over  the  State,  from  ten  to 
thirty  miles  from  an  outlet;  and  hauling  boxes  of  oranges 
that  far  by  wagon  is  attended  with  a  good  deal  of  expense 
and  often  loss  of  much  of  the  fruit  by  bruising,  which  unfits 
it  for  transportation  to  distant  markets.  In  regard  to  lati- 
tude and  longitude,  we  believe  oranges  can  be  successfully 
grown,  in  good  locations,  anywhere  south  of  the  Georgia 
line.  There  are  many  small  groves  of  old  trees  in  the 
vicinity  of  Jacksonville,  in  latitude  30°  20',  also  on  Amelia 
Island,  which  have  borne  fairly  for  the  last  forty  years. 
Some  localities  are  more  exempt  from  frost  than  others,  it 


6 

is  true  ;  but  when  the  grove  is  situated  on  moderately  high 
and  dry  land,  not  in  the  vicinity  of  marshes,  and  properly 
protected  with  timber  belts,  we  believe,  it  matters  but  little 
where  it  is  located  below  31°,  in  Florida.  Frost  is  perhaps 
more  likely  to  occur  in  the  extreme  northern  and  middle 
portions  of  the  State,  but  is  more  destructive  on  low  wet 
places,  not  suited  to  orange  culture.  Undoubtedly,  the 
most  attractive  locations  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  St.  Johns 
river,  but  that  is  not  saying  that  there  are  no  other  good  or 
desirable  places  in  the  State. 

Much  stress  has  heretofore  been  laid  on  water  protec- 
tion, by  nearly  all  writers  who  have  written  on  the  subject. 
They  contend  that  a  large  body  of  water  located  on  the 
west  or  north  of  a  grove  is  pretty  sure  to  prevent  injury 
by  frost.  This,  however,  depends  upon  circumstances.  In 
case  of  frosty  weather,  if  there  is  wind  from  the  northwest 
or  north,  in  passing  over  a  large  body  of  water,  the  tem- 
perature of  which  is  much  above  the  atmosphere,  the  warm 
vapor  is  carried  by  the  wind  and  has  a  tendency  to  tem- 
perize  to  the  extent  of  from  two  to  five  degrees  ;  but 
where  the  atmosphere  is  still,  very  little  difference  will 
be  observed  in  the  temperature  on  either  side  of  the 
water.  Frost  usually  goes  in  streaks,  like  wind  storms,  and 
may  be  noticed  in  some  localities  while  others  equally 
exposed  are  exempt. 

The  best  location  for  an  orange  grove  is  one  entirely 
surrounded  by  a  belt  of  tall  timber  trees.  If  this  cannot 
be  had,  it  should  certainly  be  protected  on  the  north,  east 
and  south.  There  is  more  damage  done  to  the  trees  and 
growing  crop  by  the  wind  than  from  all  other  causes  what- 
soever. The  damaging  winds  in  this  State  are  from  the 
north,  northeast,  east  and  southeast,  and  groves  exposed  on 


those  points  of  the  compass  are  very  likely  to  suffer  annu 
ally  from  that  cause.     However  attractive  and  desirable  it 
may  be  to  locate  a  grove  on  the  border  of  some  lake  or 
broad  river,  yet  the  disadvantages  arising  from  exposure  to 
wind  storms  would  more  than  counterbalance  in  the  end. 


SOIL. 


The  orange  will  grow  and  thrive  on  almost  any  soil 
not  too  wet  or  too  dry.  But,  like  all  other  fruit  trees,  some 
soils  are  better  adapted  to  its  cultivation  than  others.  The 
best  soil  seems  to  be  a  light  sandy  loam,  naturally  drained, 
moderately  elevated,  not  less  than  five  feet  and  not  more 
than  twenty  feet  above  permanent  water.  As  stated  above, 
orange  trees  will  flourish  and  bear  very  well  on  low  moist 
soil,  or  even  on  a  dry  porous  soil  ;  but  the  trees  are  more 
subject  to  disease,  and  the  yield  of  fruit  is  more  likely  to 
vary  in  quality  and  quantity.  Because  the  wild  orange  is 
to  be  found  mostly  in  low  wet  hammock,  is  no  reason  why 
the  sweet  orange  will  do  well  there.  The  fact  that  the  wild 
orange  is  principally  found  on  the  borders  of  streams  or  on 
the  shores  of  lakes  in  damp  localities  is  accounted  for,  we 
think,  by  the  fires  which  annually  sweep  over  the  dry  land 
and  destroy  small  trees  and  shrubbery  :  whereas  the  fires 
never  devastate  the  moist  hammock  lands,  and  consequently 
the  trees  are  only  to  be  found  in  such  places. 

The  soil  on  which  hard  timber  has  once  grown  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best  for  the  orange,  as  it  contains  more  pot- 
ash, and,  in  fact,  all  the  inorganic  elements  which  are 
requisite.  The  next  best  is  first-class  pine  land,  but  this 
will  require  more  fertilizers;  and  where  high  hard  wood 
hammock  lands  can  be  had  they  should  be  preferred,  other 
things  being  rqual. 


TIME   TO    PLANT. 

The  best  time  to  plant  the  orange  tree  is  undoubtedly 
when  the  sap  is  dormant,  from  December  to  March.  The 
weather  is  cool  and  the  buds  not  yet  active  ;  the  young 
trees  will  suffer  less  from  mutilation  of  the  roots  than  at 
any  other  season  of  the  year.  Trees  may  be  planted  any 
month  in  the  year  under  favorable  circumstances,  and  even 
in  the  summer  months  if  care  is  observed  in  watering, 
mulching  and  shading  But,  from  long  observation  and 
experiments,  we  are  forced  to  the  opinion  that  the  winter 
months,  when  the  tree  is  entirely  dormant,  is  the  right  time 
to  plant.  Our  most  experienced  orange  growers,  we  think, 
will  agree  with  us  that  planting  at  that  time  will  produce 
the  best  results. 

PLANTING   THE   TREES. 

When  it  is  determined  to  plant  on  newly  cleared  land, 
large  holes  should  be  excavated,  three  or  four  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  two  or  three  feet  deep ;  all  roots  should  be  care- 
fully shaken  from  the  soil  taken  out.  and  the  soil  thor- 
oughly mixed  and  returned  to  the  holes.  If  the  soil  is 
poor  it  will  be  well  to  mix,  when  returning,  one  pound  of 
fine  ground  bone  ;  but  if  it  is  of  the  rich  hard  wood  ham- 
mock land,  no  fertilizer  will  be  needed,  and  the  holes  may 
be  filled  after  sifting  out  the  roots  and  rubbish.  This  por- 
tion of  the  work  may  be  done  at  leisure,  weeks  before  setting 
the  trees.  If  the  grove  is  to  be  planted  in  an  old  field, 
either  bone  meal  or  well  rotted  stable  manure  should  cer- 
tainly be  well  mixed  with  the  soil  before  the  trees  are  set, 
and  if  the  work  can  be  done  some  days  or  weeks  previously, 
so  much  the  better. 

The  distance  apart  of  the  rows  is  a  matter  of  some 
importance.  Some  recommend  twenty,  some  twenty-five, 


9 

and  others  thirty  feet,  as  the  proper  distance.  But  we 
think  twenty  feet  about  the  right  figure,  and  then  you  get 
one  hundred  trees  to  the  acre. 

In  selecting  trees,  those  from  three  to  five  years  old 
should  be  chosen,  and  these  should  be  budded  to  some 
known  and  good  varieties  of  fruit,  either  in  dormant  bud, 
or  one  year's  growth  will  do,  if  thrifty. 

STOCKS. 

There  are  various  opinions  in  regard  to  the  stock  on 
which  the  buds  are  inserted.  Some  nursery-men  recom- 
mend sweet  seedlings,  and  others  are  more  in  favor  of  the 
sour  or  wild  stock.  The  sour  stocks  are  perhaps  as  hardy 
as  the  sweet,  and  grow  much  more  rapidly  and  mature 
several  years  earlier,  consequently  those  who  are  in  a  hurry 
to  get  a  bearing  grove  will  procure  the  best  varieties,  bud- 
ded low,  on  the  sour  stock.  If  bearing  sour  trees  from  the 
wild  groves  can  be  obtained,  which  have  grown  on  high, 
dry  land,  carefully  removed  and  planted,  the  tops  cut  off 
four  feet  from  the  ground,  they  will  soon  start  out  new 
shoots  which  can  be  budded  the  same  season,-  and  in  three 
or  four  years  a  fine  bearing  grove  may  be  'obtained.  But 
the  sour  wild  groves  are  mostly  found  in  low  moist  land 
and  when  transplanted  on  higher  and  dryer  soil  frequently 
sicken  and  die,  or  go  into  the  dumps  for  several  years, 
hence  the  surest  way  is  to  procure  healthy,  strong  growing, 
budded  seedlings,  which  have  been  grown  on  high  and  dry 
land. 

SEEDLING  TREES  VS.   BUDDED. 

Most  of  the  old  groves  in   Florida  are  seedling  trees, 
and  there  are  many   people  now  living*  here    who    reconr 


10 

mend  the  planting  of  seedlings  exclusively,  contending  that 
they  will  make  healthier,  larger  trees  and  come  into  bear-- 
ing as  early  as  the  grafted.  We  believe  the  theory  is  not 
tenable,  and  we  know  there  is  no  certainty  of  their  early 
fruiting.  We  have  seedling  trees  from  twelve  to  twenty 
years  old,  healthy  and  thrifty,  which  have  never  borne  an 
orange,  and  we  have  also  trees  nine  years  old,  budded, 
which  are  now  in  their  third  year  of  bearing. 

In  regard  to  the  seedling  tree  being  healthier,  or  grow- 
ing more  rapidly,  or  making  a  larger  tree  when  thirty 
years  old,  or  bearing  more  fruit  than  the  budded  or  grafted 
tree,  seems  very  unreasonable.  Many  seedling  trees  are 
barren,  or  nearly  so,  and  even  if  they  do  bear  early,  there 
is  no  certainty  of  obtaining  superior  fruit,  while  the  budded 
tree  is  usually  propagated  from  prolific  and  known  varie- 
ties, consequently,  is  never  barren. 

Those  trees  which  bear  early  and  continually,  do  not 
grow  so  rapidly  as  those  that  do  not  bear,  because  fruiting 
is  at  the  expense  of  wood,  but  as  the  years  roll  round,  if 
they  are  properly  cared  for,  they  will  grow  to  be  as  large 
and  in  every  way  equal  to  seedlings  in  size. 

Captain  Burnham,  of  Indian  river,  says  his  trees  are 
nearly  all  budded,  but  that  an  occasional  seedling  is  stand- 
ing throughout  the  grove,  and  his  budded  trees  are  now 
much  larger  (they  are  old)  more  thrifty  and  prolific  than 
the  seedlings  Plant  budded  trees  by  all  means. 

The  sooner  the  trees  are  planted  after  being  lifted 
from  the  nursery  the  better.  The  roots  should  never  be 
exposed  to  the  sun  and  drying  winds,  and  the  best  time  to 
plant  is  immediately  after  a  heavy  shower  of  rain.  The 
holes  should  be  opened  sufficiently  large  and  deep  to  allow 
of  the  spreading  out  nicely  all  the  roots,  and  then  the  dirt 
should  be  carefully  worked  in,  under  and  around  the  little 


11 

fibers,  and  the  hole  carefully  filled  up,  leaving  the  collar  of 
the  tree  one  or  two  incees  above  the  natural  position  when 
taken  from  the  nursery,  to  allow  it  to  settle  and  remain  at 
the  same  level  it  occupied  when  taken  from  the  ground, 
Now  press  the  soil  gently  and  firmly  around  the  tree  with 
the  foot,  trim  off  nearly  the  whole  top  and  many  of  the 
branches  and  the  work  Is  done.  No  watering  will  be 
necessary  if  the  roots  are  fresh  and  the  ground  moist  when 
planting, 

WATER. 

Many  pevjple  recommend  the  use  of  water  in  planting 
trees,  and  its  continuance  for  weeks  or  months  afterwards, 
especially  in  a  dry  time.  This  is  undoubtedly  good  prac- 
tice when  trees  are  of  necessity  planted  when  the  soil  is 
dry  ;  but  ordinarily  the  time  is  chosen  after  a  shower,  and 
then  there  is  no  necessity.  We  were  formerly  in  favor  of 
watering  liberally  and  oHen,  but  in  later  years  we  have 
learned  by  experience  that  if  the  trees  were  properly 
planted  in  the  first  place,  and  the  tap  root  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-four  inches  long,  that  watering  was  labor  lost ;  arid, 
in  fact,  we  believe  it  to  be  actually  detrimental  to  the 
trees. 

We  are  speaking  now  of  the  climate  of  Florida  where 
there  is  usually  from  fifty  to  sixty-five  inches  of  rain-fall 
annually,  which  is  so  distributed  throughout  the  year  that 
watering  is  unnecessary  ;  but  in  the  rainless  countries  like 
California  and  the  Levant,  where  the  rain-fall  during  eight 
warm  months  is  none  or  very  little,  irrigation  is  absolutely 
necessary  during  the  summer  until  the  trees  have  reached 
the  age  of  five  or  ten  years  after  planting,  or  until  the  tap- 
root and  laterals  have  reached  down  to  a  permanently 
moist  soil.  The  tap  root  oif  an  orange  tree  will  extend 


12 

downward  till  it  reaches  permanent  water,  no  matter  what 
the  distance  from  the  surface;  and  the  tree  will  make  but 
very  little  growth  upwards  until  that  *  is  accomplished  ; 
hence,  trees  planted  on  a  porous  soil  high  above  water, 
should  reeeive  irrigation  during  a  long  drouth. 

TOPPING    THE  TREES 

We  have  recommended  the  removal  of  nearly  the 
whole  top  of  the  tree  at  the  time  of  planting,  and  our  reas- 
ons are  that  evaporation  from  the  leaves  is  rapid  and  more 
likely  to  dry  up  the  circulation  in  the  tree,  and  the  bark 
to  shrivel,  before  the  roots  have  assumed  their  natural 
functions.  We  have  tried  all  ways,  leaving  on  the  entire 
top,  as  formerly  practiced  here,  removing  a  portion,  and 
cutting  away  the  whole  as  in  setting  trees  with  dormant 
buds,  and  we  most  decidedly  give  preference  to  the  latter. 
In  this  latter  practice  there  are  no  leaves  to  carry  oft'  the 
fluids  by  'evaporation,  and  when  the  roots  become  estab- 
lished and  resume  their  functions,  adventitious  buds  ap- 
pear and  usually  make  a  rapid  and  healthy  growth,  whereas 
when  the  entire  top  or  a  large  portion  is  allowed  to  remain, 
the  tree  seldom  makes  any  growth  the  first  year,  and  does 
pretty  well  if  it  holds  its  own  We  know  that  others  hold 
different  views  on  this  subject,  but  we  have  arrived  at  our 
conclusions  by  years  of  experience,  and  believe  it  to  be  the 
better  way. 

MULCHING. 

In  regard  to  mulching,  we  are  utterly  opposed  to  the 
practice.  The  orange  tree  is  the  child  of  a  sunny  clime, 
and  requires  all  the  warmth  and  the  actinic  rays  of  light 
that  can  possibly  be  obtained  in  order  to  produce  the  best 
results.  Our  efforts  should  be  directed  in  such  a  manner 


13 

as  to  cause  the  roots  of  the  tree  to  penetrate  deeply  into 
the  soil  where  it  is  always  moist,  and  mulching  has  a  ten- 
dency to  produce  a  contrary  result,  by  keeping  the  surface 
of  the  soil  moist,  and  dark,  thereby  attracting  the  roots 
upwards  instead  of  downward  where  we  wish  them  to  go. 
Besides  this  last  effect,  mulching  serves  as  a  harbor  for 
termites,  moles  and  other  vermine,  which  are  often  detri- 
mental to  the  health  and  life  of  the  tree.  Should  it  be 
determined  to  mulch,  trimmings  of  trees,  brush  from  the 
woods  or  other  coarse  material,  are  better  suited  to  the 
purpose,  because  air  and  light  thereby,  are  freely  admitted 
to  the  surface  soil.  The  best  mulch  we  ever  found  was  the 
frequent  stirring  of  the  surface  soil  wth  the  hoe,  rake  or 
cultivator.  By  this  practice  air  and  light  are  freely  admitted 
and  evaporation  and  capillary  attraction  from  the  subsoil 
prevented 

AFTER    CULTURE. 

When  the  trees  begin  to  put  on  a  new  growth  it  will 
be  well  to  give  a  light  dressing  of  well  rotted  stable  manure, 
or  some  one  of  the  artificial  fertilizers  well  stirred  into  the 
soil,  if  they  have  not  already  been  fertilized  at  the  time  of 
planting.  The  grove  should  be  kept  entirely  free  from 
weeds  and  grass,  by  the  hoe,  plow  or  cultivator,  and  the 
soil  about  the  trees  often  raked  over  to  prevent  baking. 
Water  sprouts  will  soon  make  their  appearance,  and  should 
be  removed  at  once  and  only  such  branches  allowed  to  grow 
as  are  desirable  for  the  formation  of  the  tree. 

SCALE  INSECTS. 

Should  the  scale  insects  make  their  appearance  they 
should  be  attended  to  at  once,  the  body  of  the  tree,  branches 
and  leaves  should  be  treated  with  some  soapy  solution,  ap- 


14 

plied  with  a  brush  to  the  body  of  the  tree  and  a  syringe 
for  sprinkling  over  the  leaves  and  branches.  A  strong  solu- 
tion of  whale  oil  soap  is  an  excellent  insecticide  and  may 
be  used  liberally  without  danger,  and  with  excellent  effects 
both  as  an  insect  destroyer,  and  a  solvent  of  scurf,  moss 
and  smut  or  mould,  which  often  attach  themselves  to  the 
leaves  and  bark  of  the  trees.  The  application  of  the  soapy 
solution  should  be  repeated  every  three  or  four  weeks  or 
until  every  vestige  of  scale  or  other  disease  is  removed. 
The  soapy  application  has  a  very  beneficial  effect,  even  if 
no  scale  are  present,  by  removing  old  bark,  cleaning  the 
surface  and  allowing  the  functions  of  the  tree  fair  play. 

Should  the  scale  insects  prove  obstinate  and  refuse  to 
yield  to  the  milder  remedies,  stronger  preparations  may  be 
applied.  A  favorite  preparation  of  our  own  for  obstinate 
cases,  and  for  washing  the  trunk  and  braches  of  older  trees, 
is  composed  of  the  following  ingredients :  Take  ten 
pounds  of  carbonate  of  soda  (sal  soda)  and  five  pounds  of 
any  good  hard  soap.  Dissolve  the  soap  in  a  small  quan- 
tity of  boiling  water,  and  put  it  into  a  forty  gallon  cask, 
(a  lard  barrel  is  the  best)  add  the  soda,  broken  into  small 
lumps,  then  fill  up  the  cask  with  soft  water  and  stir  the 
mixture  till  all  is  dissolved  and  thoroughly  mixed,  when  it 
is  ready  for  use,  and  always  on  hand.  Apply  to  the  trunk 
and  branches  of  the  tree  with  a  brush  (we  use  a  common 
long  handled  tar  brush)  give  the  trunk  and  branches  a 
thorough  scrubbing,  then  shower  the  tops,  leaves  and  small 
branches  by  means  of  a  rose  nibbed  syringe. 

This  treatment  applied  twice  a  year,  spring  and  fall, 
will  keep  the  trees  free  from  scale,  cause  the  leaves  to  look 
a  dark  green,  and  produce  a  clean,  healthy  appearance 
generally. 


15 

CULTIVATION   AND    TRAINING. 

For  the  first  two  or  three  years  vegetables  may  be 
grown  among  the  trees,  but  should  never  be  planted  nearer 
than  four  or  five  feet  from  the  tree.  No  crop  should  be 
cultivated  without  first  applying  plenty  of  fertilizers,  and  , 
the  whole  ground  sKould  be  kept  clean  and  free  from 
weeds.  Very  little  pruning  will  be  required  the  first  year, 
but  water  sprouts  must  be  dealt  with  on  their  appearance. 
In  case  dormant  budded  trees  are  planted,  only  one  shoot 
should  be  trained  ;  and  this  grows  so  rapidly,  under  favor- 
able circumstances,  and  the  wood  is  so  succulent  and  ten- 
der, that  it  needs  some  support  to  keep  it  in  an  erect 
position.  A  common  lath  placed  in  the  ground  near  the 
tree,  and  the  shoot  tied  to  it,  will  furnish  sufficient  support 
until  it  hardens.  When  the  shoot  has  made  a  growth  of 
three  or  four  feet,  pinch  off  the  top  and  allow  lateral 
branches  to  form.  In  this  manner  a  fine  branching  top 
may  be  formed  with  a  body  three  or  four  feet  high. 

No  cultivation  should  be  allowed  after  the  first  of 
October  until  February,  when  a  dressing  of  manure  should 
be  spread  over  the  surface  about  the  trees  and  lightly 
worked  into  the  soil  with  hoe,  harrcw  or  cultivator.  The 
after  treatment  will  be  to  keep  the  ground  light  and  mel- 
low throughout  the  season,  and  if  the  grove  can  be  worked 
over  every  three  or  four  weeks,  so  much  the  better.  We 
prefer  the  cultivator  rather  than  the  plow,  as  it  lightens 
and  stirs  the  soil  better  and  leaves  the  ground  level. 

PROTECTION    FROM    COLD. 

The  tree  is  young  and  tender  now,  and  should  cold 
weather  set  in  and  the  thermometer  go  down  to  30°  or  28° 
as  frequently  happens  in  many  parts  of  Florida,  the  sap 
vessels  may  freeze,  expand  and  crack  the  bark  on  the  body 
of  the  tree,  which  is  likely  to  kill  it.  In  order  to  prevent 


16 

this  occurrence  it  ma}7  be  necessary  to  protect  the  body  by 
wrapping  it  with  moss,  or  binding  it  with  pine  boughs,  or 
setting  a  shingle  or  barrel  stave  close  to  the  tree  on  the 
south  side,  which  will  shade  the  tree  from  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun  at  midday.  An  orange  tree  will  stand  ten  or 
fifteen  degrees  of  frost,  provided  the  sun's  rays  may  be 
excluded  from  the  frozen  surface.  We  have  tried  several 
modes  of  shading  the  bodies  during  the  winter  and  prefer 
the  shingle ;  as  in  this  manner  the  circulation  of  air  is  not 
interfered  with,  and  this  we  regard  as  important.  It  may 
be  observed  that  when  the  tree  is  frozen  and  exposed  to  the 
sun,  the  mischief  is  done  to  the  tree  on  the  south  side  from 
three  to  six  inches  from  the  ground.  The  bark  soon  turns 
black,  becomes  spongy  and  soft ;  and  when  this  occurs,  the 
sooner  the  tree  is  sawed  off  near  the  ground  the  better. 
But  if  properly  shaded,  nothing  of  the  kind  will  occur  in 
an  ordinary  cold  snap.  The  treatment  is  not  always  neces- 
sary, but  it  is  little  trouble  to  do  it  and  then  you  feel  safe 
from  harm  by  frost.  We  recommend  this  precaution  for 
the  first  two  or  three  years,  or  until  the  top  has  grown  suffi- 
cient to  shade  and  protect  the  body  of  the  tree. 

MANURES. 

The  orange  tree  is  a  great  feeder  and  requires  a  soil 
rich  in  plant  food,  and  if  the  locality  chosen  for  the 
grove  does  not  contain  this  naturally,  the  want  will  have 
to  be  supplied. 

Owing  to  the  porosity  of  most  of  the  soils  of  Florida, 
it  will  be  better  to  give  the  grove  a  light  annual  dressing 
than  to  apply  a  large  quantity  at  once. 

The  growing  tree,  before  it  comes  into  bearing,  requires 
more  of  the  nitrogenous  manures  than  it  does  after  matu- 
rity. This  fact  should  be  strictly  borne  in  mind,  and  then 
there  will  be  no  cause  for  getting  the  matter  mixed. 


17 

The  best  fertilizer  for  the  young  growing  orange  tree 
Is  undoubtedly  well-rotted  stable  manure.  This  contains 
all  the  elements  of  plant  food,  in  about  the  right  proper 
tions,  and  where  it  can  be  obtained  at  reasonable  cost 
should  be  secured  in  preference  to  any  other.  All  hard 
wooded  trees,  and  especially  the  orange,  require  potash  and 
phosphorous  in  larger  proportions  than  soft  wooded  trees ; 
and  the  soil  best  adapted  to  the  orange  tree  being  light  and 
leachy,  the  inorganic  elements  require  to  be  renewed  more 
frequently.  la  case  stable  manure  cannot  be  obtained  in 
sufficient  quantities,  there  are  now  prepared  artificial  fertil- 
izers especially  for  feeding  the  orange  tree.  Among  several 
which  we  have  experimented  with,  "Stowe's  Orange  Tree 
Food  "  seems  to  supply  in  an  eminent  degree  the  place  of 
stable  manure.  It  is  composed  largely  of  potash  and  bone 
phosphate,  elements  which  are  absolutely  necessary  to  the 
health  and  vigor  of  the  trees. 

"Gould  and  Company's  Fertilizer  and  Insect  Exterm- 
inator "  is  another  article  that  is  growing  into  favor,  and 
we  think  it  merits  all  they  claim  for  it.  These  fertilizers 
are  manufactured  at  our  own  doors,  as  it  were,  and  are 
likely  to  be  genuine. 

Fine  ground  raw  bone,  ammouiated  superphosphate, 
dried  blood,  fish  ^i.iano  and  many  other  artificial  fertilizers 
have  been  employed  by  orange  growers  with  beneficial 
effects ;  each  person  wh  >  has  been  successful  with  any  one 
of  them,  recommends  his  favorite  as  the  very  best.  The 
facts  are,  that  each  and  every  one  are  good,  and  *'  best "  in 
proportion  to  the  greatest  amount  of  plant  food  in  a  soluble 
form  which  they  contain  Young  growing  trees  require 
fertilizers  rich  in  carbon,  nitrogen,  phosphates  and  potash. 
Older  bearing  trees  require  manures  rich  in  phosphates 
potash  and  lime. 


18 


MUCK. 

« 

Where  other  fertilizers  cannot  be  easily  obtained, 
muck  from  the  swamps  is  to  be  had  in  abundance  in  almost 
any  part  of  the  State.  Fresh  dug  muck  applied  to  the  soil 
is  of  but  little  immediate  benefit,  but  when  treated  with 
fresh  caustic  lime  or  composted  with  stable  manure  or 
other  materials  and  then  applied,  it  has  a  very  beneficial 
effect.  A  very  good  way  to  apply  muck  is  to  remove  it 
from  the  swamp  to  dry  land,  allow  it  to  remain  in  large 
piles  for  some  months  or  until  it  is  pretty  well  decomposed, 
then  apply  it  about  the  trees  in  liberal  quantities,  spread  it 
well,  and  in  a  few  weeks  sprinkle  over  it  a  peck  of  oyster 
shell  lime  to  each  tree.  This  should  be  done  in  January 
or  February.  After  a  few  days  or  weeks  it  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  over  and  mixed  with  the  surface  soil 
with  hoe  or  cultivator.  The  plow  buries  it  too  deep  and 
does  not  mix  it  with  the  soil  so  well  as  the  cultivator. 

All  fertilizers  should  be  applied  to  the  surface  and 
worked  into  the  soil  as  evenly  and  lightly  as  possible.  In 
this  condition  the  elements  play  an  important  part  in  con- 
verting the  different  articles  into  plant  food  which  is  car- 
ried down  to  the  roots  by  the  rainfall.  Another  mode  of 
enlarging  the  manure  heap  by  the  use  of  muck,  is  to  cart 
it  to  the  cow-pen,  hog-pen  or  horse  stable,  and  allow  it  to 
receive  the  fluids  and  droppings  of  animals.  In  this  way, 
from  its  well  known  powers  of  absorption,  all  the  inorganic 
properties  of  manures  will  be  saved,  and  after  the  muck 
has  become  sufficiently  saturated  with  the  animal  excretions 
it  should  be  thrown  into  heaps  and  allowed  to  ferment, 
wh«n  it  will  be  in  a  fit  condition  to  apply  as  a  dressing  to 
the  soil.  One  of  the  best  fertilizers  we  ever  used  for  the 
growing  orange  trees  was  a  compost  of  muck,  hard  wood 
ashes  and  fine  ground  bone — three  parts  mack,  two  parts 


19 

ashes,  and  one  part  bone.  Sink  a  large  box  in  the  ground 
sufficient  to  contain  the  amount  of  compost  you  desire  to 
make.  First,  a  thick  layer  of  finely  decomposed  muck  ; 
then  a  layer  of  finely  ground  bone  ;  then  ashes,  and  so  on 
alternately  till  your  compost  is  complete,  finishing  oft  with 
a  thick  layer  of  muck ;  moisten  thoroughly  with  water, 
and  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks  renew  the  moisten- 
ing; when  in  about  three  mouths  the  solution  of  the  plant 
food  will  be  complete.  No  escape  of  ammonia  will  occur 
while  the  ashes  are  dissolving  the  bone,  as  the  muck  will 
absorb  that  as  fast  as  it  is  developed.  Remove  from  the 
box,  mix.  thoroughly  and  you  have  3  complete  manure, 
rich  in  plant  food. 

We  have  stated  that  the  orange  iree  requires  a  liberal 
supply  of  potash  and  phosphorus.  Tha  sandy  lands  of 
Florida  are  very  deficient  in  these  materials  and  the  soil, 
being  leachy,  requires  frequent  application  of  fertilizers 
containing  these  substances. 

COW    PEAS    AS    MANURE. 

Cow  peas  make  an  excellent  green  fertilizer.  Some 
recommend  the  growing  of  the  cow  pea  and  turning  under 
with  the  plow  when  the  peas  are  in  bloom.  This  would  be 
an  excellent  way  to  prepare  the  land  before  planting  the 
trees,  and  may  do  very  well  afterwards  if  care  is  taken  not 
to  plow  deep  close  to  the  tree  so  as  to  disturb  the  roots.  A 
better  way,  we  think,  is  to  grow  the  peas  in  the  summer 
and  when  in  pod  cut  and  pile  around  the  trees,  not  too 
near,  and  allow  them  to  rot  on  the  soil,  which  they  will  do 
in  a  few  weeks  if  the  season  is  wet.  When  pretty  well 
rotted  stir  into  the  soil  and  the  effects  of  the  dressing  will 
be  observed  in  a  short  time  by  the  vigorous  growth  and 
fine  color  of  the  trees. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  we  have  given  a  good  deal  of 


20 

of  attention  to  the  subject  of  thorough  fertilization,  but  it 
may  be  as  well  to  state  that  on  the  light  poor  lands  of 
Florida  no  success  will  attend  the  cultivation  of  those  who 
neglect  it.  It  has  been  promulgated  by  some  theorists  that- 
stable  manure  is  too  heating  and  stimulating  and,  if  used, 
will  produce  the  "die  back"  and  other  calamities  on  young 
growing  tiees. 

We  believe  the  theory  is  not  a  good  one,  and  that  the 
disease  of  the  trees  may  be  traced  to  other  causes,  such  as 
bad  locations,  wet,  soggy  soil,  the  action  of  wind  and  rain 
storms,  moss  and  fungoid  growths,  etc.  However  others 
may  regard  these  heating  manures,  we  have  seen  the  best 
of  effects  from  their  use,  and  shall  continue  to  run  the  risk 
till  otherwise  convinced. 

OTHER    HELPS. 

One  of  the  greatest  helps  in  the  successful  cultivation 
of  a  young  orange  grove,-  is  a  flock  of  fowls.  The  small 
breeds  which  have  a  disposition  to  range,  like  the  Ham- 
burgs  or  Leghorns,  are  undoubtedly  the  best.  They  will 
clean  out  the  grasshoppers,  worms,  butterflies,  slugs,  moles, 
small  snakes,  lizards,  toads,  frogs,  and  every  other  crawl- 
ing, flying  and  hopping  thing  which  is  not  too  formidable 
for  them  to  cope  with.  We  have  a  flock  of  fifty,  which 
have  the  range  of  our  home  grove  of  seven  acres,  and  it  is 
amusing  to  see  these  lively  creatures  range  over  the  field 
in  pursuit  of  insects  arid  other  animal  food.  Hardly  a  foot 
of  the  field  but  what  is  scoured  over  every  day  ;  and  be 
sides,  they  destroy  a  vast  amount  of  grass  and  weeds  and 
obnoxious  things  generally.  They  will  pay  their  way 
better  than  any  other  stock. 

A  flock  of  turkeys  would  very  likely  be  better,  because 
their  proclivities  for  ranging  are  proverbial.     But  then  it 


21 

would  require  a  high  fence  to  keep  them  anywhere  in 
bounds.  Any  kind  of  fowls  are  useful  in  an  orange  grove 
and  should  be  employed  wherever  practicable. 

SOME    DRAWBACKS. 

One  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  the  Northern  settler 
in  Florida  is  the  fence  laws.  These  laws  seem  to  have 
been  enacted  for  the  special  protection  and  encouragement 
of  the  "  cracker  "  and  "  squatter,"  who  own  or  work  but 
little  land,  own  from  one  to  a  dozen  head  of  cattle,  five  to 
ten  hogs,  and  pay  little  or  no  taxes.  These  animals, 
according  to  law,  are  allowed  to  run  at  large  and  range 
wherever  they  list,  and  the  settler  who  cares  to  raise  any 
crop  or  keep  his  grove  free  from  depredations,  must  "  fence 
them  out."  No  redress  for  grievances  of  any  kind,  and  as 
fencing  material  soon  rots  out  in  this  climate,  the  expense 
of  keeping  fences  "  hog  proof  and  stallion  high"  amounts 
to  no  inconsiderable  sum.  We  hope  and  trust  when  our 
legislature  meets,  they  will  see  the  wisdom  of  curtailing 
this  perfect' freedom  of  range,  or  the  "  hoggish"  part  of  it 
at  least.  A  very  good  practice  prevails  in  some  portions  of 
the  State.  A  neighborhood  or  community  make  laws  for 
their  own  protection  in  the  hog  business.  They  agree 
among  themselves  to  keep  up  fences  sufficient  to  turn  cat- 
tle, and  the  hogs  found  strolling  about  are  made  into  pork 
on  sight.  Hogs  are  not  prevalent  to  any  great  extent  in 
such  communities,  and  we  hope  to  see  the  same  regulations 
carried  into  effect  in  other  localities.  It  has  been  asserted 
to  us  by  individuals  that  the  damage  done  to  crops  every 
year,  in  some  portions  of  Florida,  by  hogs  and  cattle  being 
allowed  a  free  range,  is  more  than  the  actual  worth  of  the 
animals.  To  the  new  settler,  it  is  a  sore  grievance  and  one 
of  the  greatest  set-backs  to  the  settlement  of  the  country. 


22 

The  fence  laws  as  now  in  vogue  and  understood  are  a  pro- 
lific source  of  coolness  and  contention  among  neighbors,  and 
lead  to  the  commission  of  many  crimes  ;  and  we  believe 
several  murders  in  the  State  have  been  committed  from 
feuds  growing  out  of  the  same.  We  hope  our  next  leg?s 
lature  will  remedy  the  evil. 

THE    FROST    LINE 

Much  has  been  written,  said  and  sung  in  regard  to 
the  "frost  line"  and  the  "orange  belt''  in  Florida.  There 
is  no  portion  of  Florida  where  frost  has  not  been  observed 
sometimes;  but  except  in  the  year  '35,  we  have  never  heard 
of  any  particular  damage  by  frost  below  the  twenty-seventh 
parallel  of  latitude,  and  but  seldom  has  it  occurred  below 
the  twenty-eighth.  About  the  twenty-eighth  to  tne  Geor- 
gia line,  there  are  more  or  less  cold  waves  during  the 
winter,  and  in  many  localities  considerable  damage  is  done 
to  orange  trees,  and  sometimes  the  cold  is  severe  enough  to 
injure  the  fruit.  In  1870  71  many  young  trees  were  killed 
to  the  ground  and  large  quantities  of  fruit  was  frozen  solid 
on  the  trees.  The  same  thing  occurred  in  1876-7,  but  the 
freeze  was  not  so  general  nor  severe  in  some  localities  as 
in  others.  The  cold  wave  seemed  to  go  in  streaks,  and  was 
very  severe  in  all  the  counties  lying  along  the  St.  Johns 
from  the  Georgia  line  to  Brevard.  It  was  very  severe  in 
many  localities  in  Duval,  St.  Johns,  Putnam,  Volusia  and 
Orange.  In  Duval,  where  the  writer  resides,  it  occurred 
only  in  particular  localities.  Some  groves  below,  about  and 
above  Jacksonville,  were  hardly  singed.-  The  writer  lost 
three  hundred  young  trees  (they  were  not  protected),  while 
his  neighbors  close  by  did  not  receive  a  scratch.  And  so  it 
seemed  to  travel,  touching  here  and  there,  as  far  south  as 
Lake  Jessup.  Even  in  that  year  many  oranges  were  frozen 


23 

on  the  trees.  We  remember  at  the  State  fair  in  Jackson- 
ville.  in  1877,  the  only  oranges  on  exhibition  that  had  been 
frozen  were  grown  in  a  county,  more  than  one  hundred 
miles  due  south  of  Jacksonville,  and  the  orange  that 
took  the  first  premium  for  quality,  was  grown  two  miles 
below  Jacksonville.  We  might  cite  many  other  instances 
to  prove  that  there  is  no  such  thing  as  the  "orange  belt  " 
and  "  below  the  frost  line,"  except  in  the  brain  of  interested 
parties.  There  will  be  occasional  failures  from  frost  in 
nearly  all  sections  of  the  State  which  are  habitable,  and 
parties  wishing  to  locate  need  not  be  alarmed  by  the  bug- 
bear stories  of  land  speculators. 

VARIETIES. 

A  gentleman  last  winter,  while  conversing  about  vari 
eties  of  the  orange,  said  :  ;*  There  is  no  orange  grown  in 
Florida  that  is  not  merchantable."  He  was  a  stickler  for 
seedlings,  having  a  large  grove  of  those  "  varieties."  The 
same  might  be  said  in  regard  to  apples,  pears  and  potatoes  >' 
but  that  there  are  some  varieties  of  oranges  better  than 
others,  more  palatable,  better  shape,  better  size,  better  ship- 
ping qualities,  etc.,  no  one  who  has  had  much  experience 
in  handling  oranges  will  pretend  to  deny. 

The  writer  has  been  one  of  the  committee  on  nomen- 
clature of  tli  3  Fruit  Growers'  Association,  and  one  of  the 
judges  on  fruit  at  all  the  State  fairs  which  have  been  held 
in  Florida,  and  has  had  fruit  under  consideration  from  all 
parts  of  the  State,  and  under  the  circumstances  believes  he 
can  name  varieties  which  will  give  general  satisfaction. 
We  would  advise  by  all  means  that  the  young  grove  be 
planted  with  budded  varieties.  While  planting,  the  better 
varieties  may  as  well  be  obtained  and  set,  as  the  ordinary 
kinds. 


24 

In  the  coming  future,  oranges  will,  like  apples,  pears 
and  other  fruits  he  marketed  hy  specific  names,  and  only 
the  best  known  varieties  will  have  any  standing  with  the 
public.  Such  being  the  fact,  it  behooves  those  engaged  in 
the  business  to  possess,  as  far  as  possible,  the  best  varieties 
now  known. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  interested,  we  will  give  a 
short  description  of  a  few  named  varieties,  which  have 
received  the  sanction  of  the  Fruit  Growers'  Association  of 
Florida,  and  will  name  them  in  the  order  of  excellence. 

Magnum  Bonum. — Size  large  to  very  large  ;  color, 
clear  light  orange;  Skin  thin,  smooth  and  glossy;  pulp 
fine,  tender,  melting,  juicy,  sweet  and  vinous. 

Hdmosassa. — Medium  size,  skin  very  thin,  remarkably 
smooth  and  satiny;  color,  bright;  pulp  very  fine,  remark- 
ably juicy,  sweet,  vinous  and  fine  flavor. 

Nonpareil. — Size  above  medium  ;  bright  color  ;  skin 
thin,  pulp  tender  and  melting ;  juice  sub-acid  and  vinous. 

Old  Vini. — Size  above  medium  ;  color,  dark  oransre  ; 
skin  rather  rough,  medium  ;  pulp  rather  coarse,  juicy,  sweet 
and  remarkable  for  a  sprightly  aromatic  flavor. 

Navel. — Size  large  to  very  large :  skin  rough,  rather- 
thick  and  tough  ;  pulp  very  fine,  melting,  tender,  juicy, 
sweet  and  good  flavor ;  valuable  for  late  ripening  and 
carrying  qualities. 

Tardif. — Large  dark  orange;  skin  smooth  and  thin  ; 
pulp  rather  tough,  grain  fine,  juicy  and  sweet ;  an  ordinary 
orange,  but  valuable  on  account  of  its  late  ripening 
qualities. 

Arcadia. — Size  large,  color  deep,  skin  smooth,  medium; 
pulp  deep  rich  color,  coarse,  melting,  juicy  and  sub-acid. 


25 

Sweet  Seville. — Small,  color  dark,  skin  thin,  pulp  very 
fine,  juicy,  melting,  and  very  sweet  and  sprightly. 

Mandarin,  or  Tangerine,  Kid  Glove — Medium  or 
small  size,  color  dark  orange  ;  skin  medium,  irregularly 
ribbed,  flattened  «r  tomato  shaped ;  pulp  coarse,  readily 
parting  from  the  skin,  and  the  sections  also  part  readily 
from  each  other  ;  juicy,  sweet  and  highly  aromatic  This 
orange  is  becoming  very  popular  as  a  table  fruit  on  ac- 
count of  the  ease  with  which  the  pulp  may  be  got  at  with- 
out soiling  the  hands.  This  orange  is  known  in  Florida 
under  the  cognomen  of  Tangerine,  but  is  undoubtedly  the 
old  Mandarin.  There  are  several  seedling  varieties,  one 
of. the  best  of  which  we  ever  saw  was  exhi-bited  last  winter 
at  the  State  fair  by  Doctor  Wall,  of  Tampa. 

Sugar  Sweet. — Small,  globular,  smooth,  thin  skin,  pulp 
fine,  tender,  juicy,  very  sweet  and  delicious.  A  beautiful 
little  orange,  called  sometimes  the  "  picnic  orange ''  on 
account  of  its  size  and  the  number  which  will  go  in  a  box. 
Tree  said  to  be  very  prolific.  Every  grove  should  contain 
a  few  trees  for  variety,  and  on  account  of  its  early  ripening 
(October),  and  for  the  excellence  OL  its  fruit. 

Satsuma. — A  native  of  the  island  of  Kiusiu,  Japan, 
and  named  after  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  that  island  by 
request  of  Mrs.  General  Van  Valkenburg 

The  trees  of  this  variety  and  species  were  introduced 
into  Florida  by  Dr.  George  II.  Hall  in  1876  and  also  by 
Mrs.  Van  Valkenburg  in  1878.  Tho  trees  were  imported 
direct  from  Japan. 

The  variety  belongs  to  the  loose  rinded  species,  Citrus 
Aurantium  Japonieum.  The  fruit  is  medium  size,  flat- 
tened, deep  orange  color,  smooth  thin  skin,  which  is  sweet, 


26 

aromatic  and  easily  detatched  from  the  pulp.  Color  of 
pulp  dark  orange  ;  segments  part  freely;  fine  grain,  tender, 
juicy,  sweet  and  delicious.  There  is  none  of  that  peculiar 
rank  odor  which  characterizes  most  other  varieties  belong- 
ing to  the  same  class  and  species.  The  tree  is  thornless,  the 
leaves  peculiarly  thick,  lanciolate,  serrated,  medium,  pit- 
iole  linear,  and  the  fruit  is  seedless. 

The  fruit  of  this  variety  will  doubtless  take  high  rank 
for  the  table  and  dessert.  We  regard  it  a  rare  and 
desirable  acquisition. 

Phillips'  Bitter  Sweet. — Large,  thin  skin,  pulp  tender, 
juicy,  sub-acid,  slightly  bitter  and  aromatic.  Doubtless  a 
hybrid  of  the  wild  and  sweet  orange.  Among  other  good 
features,  the  tree  is  thornless.  An  excellent  summer  fruit. 
A  few  trees  should  be  in  every  well  regulated  grove. 

Dummit. — Large,  bright,  juicj,  sweet,  sugary;  a  first 
class  orange,  except  the  skin  is  thin  and  tender,  which 
renders  it  difficult  to  ship, 

Dixon. — Fine  large  orange,  first-class,  good  shipper. 

SpratCs  Harmon* — Excellent  every  way.  Said  to  be 
very  prolific. 

Parson  Brown. — Large,  sweet,  juicy,  fine.  Said  to  be 
excellent. 

Higgins. — Medium,  fair  ;  skin  smooth  and  thin  ;  pulp 
fine,  juicy,  sweet  and  excellent.  This  variety  was  awarded 
the  first  premium  at  the  fair  last  winter  for  quality. 

Mediterranean  Sweet. — This  variety  has  not  yet  been 
fruited  in  this  State.  It  is  described  as  large,  bright,  thin 
skin,  juicy,  sweet  and  delicious,  and  highly  commended  for 
its  earliness,  prolific  bearing,  and  from  the  fact  that  its 
branches  are  thornless.  This  one  fact  alone  would  be  a 


27 

good  recommend.     It  comes  to  us  from  California  and  is 
regarded  as  the  very  best,  or  one  of  the  best. 

There  are  many  other  varieties  of  the  orange  which  are 
considered  "the  best,"  by  those  who  grow  them,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  their  locality.  Some  of  them  are  undoubtedly 
above  the  average,  but  when  exhibited  side  by  side  and 
compared  and  tested  with  some  we  have  named,  prove  to 
be  only  ordinary.  Many  foreign  varieties  are  being  prop- 
agated now,  and  we  may  find  in  some  of  them  fruit  supe- 
rior to  our  present  stock,  but  we  do  not  look  for  any  such 
event. 

PRUNING. 

But  very  little  pruning  seems  necessary  in  cultivating 
the  orange  tree,  especially  if  you  wish  low-headed  trees. 
It  is  better  to  let  them  grow  about  as  they  list  for  the  first 
three  or  four  years,  except  pulling  off  the  water  sprouts  as 
they  appear,  and,keeping  the  tree  in  a  symmetrical  form. 
Trees  headed  low  shield  the  trunk  in  frosty  weather,  and 
when  they  commence  bearing  the  fruit  is  more  easily 
reached ;  and  besides,  in  case  of  wind  storms,  the  tree  and 
fruit  are  less  likely  to  suffer  injury  than  trees  which  are 
trimmed  high.  An  orange  tree  will  seldom  bear  when 
growing  in  a  compact  upward  form;  but  will  bear  soon, 
when  the  branches  begin  to  extend  laterally  ;  hence,  trees 
which  have  a  tendency  to  go  skyward  should  be  topped 
and  caused  to  spread  out  their  arms  laterally. 

CULTURE  OF  MATURE  GROVES. 

When  the  orange  tree  has  reached  the  bearing  age,  the 
treatment  may  be  varied  from  that  which  was  necessary 
during  its  rapid  growth.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the 
employment  of  nitrogenous  manures  was  highly  com- 


28 

mended,  such  as  stable  manure,  dissolved  hone,  fish  guano, 
dried  blood,  etc..  composte  1  with  rnuck.  But  such  stimu- 
lating articles  are  no  longer  necessary,  except  in  so  far  as 
to  keep  up  the  steady  growth  of  the  tree  and  furnish  food 
for  wood  growth.  It  will  be  noticed  that  after  a  liberal 
application  of  stable  manure,  or.  cow-penning  the  soil,  the 
trees  put  on  an  extraordinary  growth,  and  if  fruiting  at 
the  same  time,  the  fruit  will  be  large,  coarse,  rough,  taste- 
less and  watery,  and  will  show  very  f»jw  of  the  character- 
istics which  it  presented  under  different  treatment  of 
the  trees. 

The  best  fertilizer  for  a  bearing  grove  is  fine  ground 
bone,  with  the  addition  of  ashes  or  muriate  of  potash,  or  a 
light  dressing  of  common  salt.  The  soil  should  be  fre- 
quently stirred  with  the  cultivator  throughout  the  season. 
Muck,  well  decomposed,  is  always  in  order,  and  'every 
three  or  four  years  a  good  dressing  of  oyster-shell  lime,  say 
half  a  bushel  to  a  tree,  will  be  very  beneficial.  From  eight 
to  ten  pounds  of  raw  ground  bone,  scattered  broadcast 
around  each  tree  and  well  harrowed  in.  will  furnish  phos- 
phorus sufficient  to  last  four  or  five  years.  It  is  slowly 
decomposed  by  coming  in  contact  with  carbonic  acid  gas, 
which  is  generated  in  the  soil  by  the  decomposition  of  veg- 
etable substances,  and  in  this  way  furnishes  an  abundance 
of  phosphorus  for  the  wants  of  the  trees,  Potash  requires 
to  be  applied  more  frequently,  as  a  superabundance  of  that 
material,  dissolved  by  the  rains,  and  what  is  not  appropri- 
ated by  the  roots,  washes  down  out  of  r<  ach  of  the  feeding 
roots ;  hence  it  should  be  applied  oftener,  and  in  smaller- 
quantities,  say  about  two  pounds  to  each  large  tree,  annu- 
ally. The  required  amount  of  these  non-organic  elements 


29 

to  keep  up  a  healthy  growth  of  tree  and  fruit,  varies  with 
the  consistence  of  different  soils. 

The  treatment  here  recommended  applies  to  light 
sandy  soils  without  bottom  ;  but  where  the  soil  consists 
partly  of  clay,  or  has  a  clay  subsoil,  a  much  smaller  quan- 
tity of  any  manureal  substance  will  be  required.  The 
clay  holds  the  inorganic  elements,  and  the  roots  take  them 
up  as  needed.  The  leaves  which  fall  from  the  tree  and 
decompose  on  the  soil,  furnishes  sufficient  plant  food  to 
keep  the  tree  in  a  passably  healthy  condition  ;  but  if  you 
wish  an  abundance  of  fruit,  you  must  feed  your  trees 
accordingly. 

CAKE    OF    THE    TREES. 

The  trees  should  have  every  attention  in  order  to  keep 
them  healthy,  and  in  good  condition  to  furnish  annual 
crops  of  fruit.  All  superfluous  wood  and  twigs  on  the 
inner  branches  should  be  carefully  removed  in  order  to 
admit  light  and  air  to  the  center  of  the  tree. 

Cobwebs  and  all  collections  of  debris  should  be 
brushed  away,  and  the  tru»k  and  •  branches  brushed  over 
with  the  soap  and  soda  solution  mentioned  heretofore,  and 
the  tree  entire  showered  completely  over  with  the  same 
solution.  This  application  should  be  made  once  a  year, 
before  the  trees  bloom.  It  not  only  cleans  the  trees  from 
moss  and  dirt,  but  has  a  tendency  to  free  them  from  insects; 
the  scale  in  particular,  and  besides  the  soda  solution  acts  as 
a  powerful  fertilizer  by  dissolving  materials  inert  in  the 
soil  and  converting  them  into  plant  food. 

DISEASE    OF   ORANGE   TREES. 

The  orange  tree,  as  a  rnle,  is  not  subject  to  many  dis- 
eases. If  the  proper  soil  and  conditions  are  present,  the 
tree  will  continue  to  grow,  remain  healthy  and  vigorous, 
and  live  to  a  good  old  age,  even  centuries.  We  are  of  the 


30 

opinion  that  to  location  and  soil  may  be  attributed  all  the 
diseases  to  which  the  tree  is  subject. 

"  DIE-BACK,"    AND    "GUM-DISEASE." 

In  many  localities  a  disease  is  somewhat  prevalent, 
which,  for  want  of  a  better  name,  and  as  it  describes  in  a 
measure  the  characteristics,  has  received  the  above  cogno- 
men. The  principal  symptom  is  the  issue  of  gum  through 
the  bark,  and  its  collection  in  tears  or  drops  on  the  surface. 
The  gum  disease  may  develop  in  any  portion  of  the  tree 
and  branches,  but  it  usually  makes  its  appearance  through 
solitary  rapid  growing  shoots,  and  at  the  collar  of  the  tree 
near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  makes  its  appearance 
in  every  part  of  the  diseased  tree  if  the  bark  is  cut  or 
wounded.  Of  the  cause  but  little  is  known.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly a  disease  of  faulty  nutrition.  It  is  very  preva- 
lent in  Louisiana  and  in  many  localities  in  Florida.  The 
disease  is  met  with  more  frequently  in  soils  which  are  low 
and  composed  largely  of  humus,  and  especially  where 
underlaid  with  a  ferruginous  clay  hard-pan.  It  is  believed 
that  the  rich  soggy  soil  contains  elements  not  well  calcu- 
lated for  the  healthful  condition  of  the  trees.  Acidity  of 
the  soil  is  probably  the  cause,  and  lime  and  potash  is  the 
remedy.  Better  locate  your  grove  where  no  such  condi- 
tions exist. 

It  has  been  observed  that  insects  are  more  likely  to 
attack  trees  which  are  diseased.  Whether  there  is  a  differ- 
ence in  the  consistence  of  the  sap.  or  whether,  like  the 
human  family,  they  manifest  a  disposition  to  kick  the  indi- 
vidual on  the  down-hill  road  and  help  him  along,  is  not  so 
patent ;  but  sure  it  is  that  a  diseased  orange  tree  attracts* 
more  bugs,  spiders,  scale  and  other  abominations  than  a 


carcass  does  buzzards.  The  effects  of  the  disease  have 
often  been  mistaken  for  the  cause.  The  sap  is  not  properly 
manufactured  by  the  roots  ;  the  laboratory  below  has  not 
the  right  kind  of  material  to  work  up  a  healthy  circulating 
medium, — hence,  the  leaves  do  not  elaborate  the  sap  into 
the  proper  elements  for  wood  growth,  and  the  result  is  pale, 
succulent,  rapid  growing  sprouts,  which  contain  a  dispro- 
portion of  gum  and  glucose.  These  unhealthy  growths, 
not  being  able  to  resist  the  effects  of  the  sun's  rays,  often 
blister  and  crack ;  the  sap  oozes  out,  dries  on  the  surface 
in  the  form  of  tears,  which  are  sweet  and  succcilent,  and 
thereby  attract  all  sorts  of  insects  and  ants.  These  sprouts 
not  having  the  elements  necessary  for  healthy  branches, 
often  wither  and  die  back  to  the  part  of  the  tree  from 
which  they  started  ;  hence,  we  have  the  "die-back"  and  the 
"  gum  disease"  all  in  one.  The  cause  is  undoubtedly  at 
the  root ;  the  effects  dyspepsia,  from  defective  or  pernicious 
plant  food  ;  the  remedy,  proper  location,  cultivation  and  a 
potash,  soda  and  lime  diet. 

The  same  dyspeptic  symptoms  in  the  tree,  may  some- 
times be  produced  by  over  feeding,  or  a  surfeit  of  rich  ni- 
trogenous manure,  but  we  think  such  instances  are  rare, 
and  the  disease  more  likely  to  occur  from  too  much  acidity 
in  the  soil. 

RUST  ON  THE  ORANGE. 

Although  rust  on  the  rind  of  an  orange  is  not  consid- 
ered detrimental  to  the  qualities  of  the  fruit,  yet  it  detracts 
from  its  external  appearance  wonderfully,  and  reduces  its 
market  value  in  a  corresponding  degree. 

There  has  been  much  speculation  as  to  the  cause  of 
this  abnormal  condition,  and  the  experiments  of  investiga- 


32 

tors  have  not  yet  determined  the  whys  and  the  wherefores. 

Some  individuals  are  of  the  opinion  that  it  is  caused 
by  the  punctures  of  insects — the  orange  mite — through  the 
outer  rind  into  the  oil  cells,  thereby  causing  the  oil  to 
ooze  out  and  spread  over  the  rind,  which  oxidizes  and  pro- 
duces the  stain  as  we  find  it.  Others  think  it  is  caused 
wholly  by  the  excretions  of  microscopic  insects ;  while 
others  still,  maintain  that  it  is  natural  rust  of  a  fungoid 
character.  Our  investigations,  which  have  been  rather 
extensive  and  thorough,  leads  to  the  belief  that  the  rust  is 
the  result  of  both  the  workings  of  insects  and  a  fungus. 

It  is  noticeable  that  the  rust  seldom  covers  the  entire 
rind.  Sometimes  one  side  only  is  stained  ;  sometimes  a  ring 
extending  around  the  middle,  and  sometimes  only  a  spot 
or  specks  will  appear.  When  in  the  way  of  observation, 
it  has  been  found  that  the  orange  is  green  and  smooth  up 
to  half  its  natural  size.  Then  a  smooth,  light  colored  sub- 
stance would  appear  in  places,  or  over  a  portion  of  the  surf- 
ace of  the  fruit,  seeming  like  the  light  glary  trail  left  by  a 
snail.  Examination  of  portions  of  the  rind  at  this  time 
with  the  microscope,  has  revealed  the  presence  of  minute 
insects,  and  also  the  presence  of  the  ordinary  orange  scale. 
The  light  glary  substance  was  found  evenly  spread  over 
portions  of  the  surface,  corresponding  to  the  rusty  surface, 
which  subsequently  appeared.  Subsequent  examinations 
with  the  microscope  revealed  minute  fungus  spread  over 
the  entire  surface  of  those  bands  and  patches  covered  by 
the  glary  substance.  These  occurrences  leads  to  the  belief 
that  the  light  glary  substance  seen  on  the  rind  was  &  secre- 
tion of  the  insects,  which  remains  and  forms  a  fit  lodging 
place  for  the  spores  of  fungi  to  develop. 

What  confirms  us  more  strongly  in  the  belief  that  in- 


33 

sects  are  at  the  bottom  of  the  mischief,  is,  that  of  all  the 
fruit  examined  which  was  rusty,  not  a  single  specimen 
could  be  found  that  did  not  show  the  presence  of  scale  on 
the  fruit  or  branches  of  the  tree.  Another  fact  still  more 
favorable  to  the  insect  hypothesis,  is  this :  In  the  year 
1879,  the  scale  insect  prevailed  to  a  fearful  extent,  and  the 
orange  crop  was  as  fearfully  rusty,  while  this  year,  the  scale 
has  not  made  such  astonishing  havoc,  and  the  orange  crop 
was  never  brighter,  or  presented  a  more  healthy  appear- 
ance. 

In  regard  to  a  remedy  for  rust  on  the  orange  we  have 
none  to  offer,  except  that  the  trees  should  be  so  cultured  as 
to  keep  them  properly  healthy,  and  such  appliances  used 
as  to  rid  the  trees  of  the  scale  insect.  This  we  believe  is 
the  only  remedy.  In  regard  to  other  appliances,  such  as 
lime  dust,  kerosene  and  the  like,  there  is  no  hope  except  as 
they  may  be  the  means  of  getting  rid  of  the  universal 
pest. 

SPLITTING   OF   THE    ORANGE. 

During  the  later  growing  months  of  the  orange,  from 
July  to  November,  the  rind  of  the  fruit  sometimes  cracks, 
exposing  the  segments  of  the  interior  to  the  weather,  and 
the  fruit  soon  decays  and  drops  from  the  stem.  Sometimes 
but  few  fruits  are  so  affected  ;  sometimes  many.  Some 
trees  seem  worse  than  others  standing  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  and  some  seasons  none  are  lost  from  this  cause. 

The  cause  has  generally  been  attributed  to  a  season  of 
drowth,  followed  by  excessive  wet,  thereby  causing  the  pulp 
to  grow  faster  than  the  rind,  which,  not  being  able  to  with- 
stand the  pressure  from  within,  splits  ;  and  hence  the 
result. 

The  present  season  has  been  one  prolific  in  split  fruit  >' 


34 

and  yet,  there  has  been  no  unusual  drowth,  nor  has  there 
been  a  lack  of  moisture,  especially  during  the  mouths  of 
September,  October  and  November.  Many  oranges  have 
split  and  fell  all  through  the  season,  even  up  to  late  in 
November,  and  it  has  been  noticed  that  trees  standing  on 
low  ground,  where  plenty  of  moisture  was  always  at  hand, 
have  been  affected  equally  with  those  growing  on  high,  dry 
soil.  Our  observations  leads  to  the  belief  that  the  cau.se  of 
splitting  of  the  orange  is  not  well  understood,  and  that  the 
theory  generally  accepted  has  but  little  foundation  in  fact 
More  light  on  this  important  subject  is  desirable,  and  we 
hope  more  attention  will  be  given  the  subject  in  the  future, 
and  that  the  cause  and  the  cure  may  be  fully  ascertained. 
Many  thousands  of  oranges  are  lost  every  year  by  this 
strange,  unnatural  phenomenon. 

INSECTS. 

There  are  many  insects  which  are  more  or  less  injuri* 
ous  to  the  welfare  and  successful  cultivation  of  an  orange 
grove.  Among  the  many,  the  grasshopper  plays  a  conspic- 
uous part.  They  exist  in  countless  thousands,  and  live  by 
devouring  the  leaves  of  the  trees,  and  young  succulent 
shoots.  There  are  several  varieties  which  prey  upon  the 
leaves;  but  perhaps  the  meanest  of  all  the  tribe  is  the 
green,  flying  insect,  commonly  known  as  the  Katy-did. 
These  creatures  will  destroy  and  mutilate  about  as 
great  an  amount  of  leaves  as  the  silk  worm,  and  accom- 
plish the  task  in  an  incredible  short  space  of  time.  The 
common  brown  grasshoppers  are  also  numerous,  but  not  so 
ravenous  as  the  Katys. 

The  only  effectual  remedy  are  the  birds  and  a  flock  of 
fowls.  These  useful  helps  are  to  be  highly  commended,  and 
should  receive  every  encouragement  to  do  their  duty,  by 


35 

not  feeding  them  much  of  anything  except  what  they  get 
in  the  range.  It  wilFnot  do  to  feed  fowls  much  if  you 
wish  them  to  do  their  duty  in  an  orange  grove. 

The  orange  dog  is -a  large  spotted  worm,  the  larvae  of 
ii  very  large  spotted  black  and  gold  butterfly.  They  prey 
upon  the  orange  leaves,  and  should  be  destroyed  by  hand 
picking. 

Termites,  or  white  ants,  commonly  called  wood  lice, 
are  very  destructive  to  the  orange  trees.  They  are  to  be 
found  under  old  wood,  logs  and  rubbish.  They  frequently 
attack  the  orange  tree  at  the  collar,  just  under  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  and  eat  the  bark  entirely  away,  completely 
girdling  the  tree  at  the  roots,  which  is  fatal. 

Dig  around  the  trees  occasionally  in  search  of  them, 
and  if  found  at  their  work,  disturb  their  quarters ;  show 
them  to  your  chickens,  and  they  will  devour  the  last  one 
of  them.  If  you  have  no  fowls,  dig  out  their  nest  and 
apply  the  soda  solution,  or  some  hot  suds.  Remove  old 
wood,  brush,  and  mulching  from  the  trees,  as  these  form  a 
convenient  harbor  for, them. 

ORANGE  SCALE. 

Perhaps  no  other  subject  on  orange  culture  is  of 
greater  importance  than  the  one  at  the  head  of  this  para- 
graph. The  scale  insect  or  bark  louse  has/ never  until  re- 
cently received  much  attention  ;  bur,  the  people  have  now 
become  thoroughly  aroused  to  its  importance,  and  the 
Agricultural  Department  at  Washington,  has  commissioned 
its  entomologist,  to  study  the  species,  their  habits  and  de- 
velopment. Prof  J.  H.  Comstock,  the  entomologist,  has 
spent  nearly  a  year  in  Florida  and  California  in  this  inves- 
tigation, and  has  succeeded  in  classifying  about  fifteen 


36 

species  which  are  injurious  to  fruit  trees  and    other   plants, 
several  of  which  are  to  be  found  on  the  citrus  fruits. 

It  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  little  work  to  go  exten- 
sively into  the  history,  habits  and  description  of  the  scale 
insects,  injurious  to  the  orange,  but  it  i»  enough  to  say  that 
they  exist  in  countless  mil.1  ions,  and  that  scarcely  a  grove 
or  tree  is  to  be  found  which  has  not  more  or  less  of  these 
pests  among  its  leaves,  fruit  or  branches. 

They  attach  themselves  to  the  bark  of  the  leaves  and 
branches,  or  rind  of  the  fruit,  and  live  by  sucking  the 
juice  from  the  tree.  They  multiply  very  fast,  and  a  few 
individuals  finding  lodgement  oil  a  tree  will  soon  cover  its 
entire  surface  if  no  means  are  employed  to  lessen  their 
numbers. 

For  a  description  of  the  scale  insects,  their  classifica- 
tion and  habits,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  writings  of 
Prof.  Comstock,  Dr.  C.  J.  Kenworthy  and  W.  H.  Ash- 
inead.  These  gentlemen  have  investigated  the  subject 
thoroughly  and  given  a  minute  and  graphic  description  of 
these  miserable  little  nuisances.  When  a  tree  has  become 
affected  with  scale  to  any  great  extent,  it  soon  takes  on  H 
sickly  appearance.  The  leaves,  which  were  a  dark  shining 
green  before,  IIDW  look  sallow  and  pale  ;  the  trunk  and 
branches  which  were  smooth  and  lively,  are  rough  and 
shriveled,  and  the  bark  looks  as  though  it  was  drawn 
tightly  over  the  wood  ;  in  fact  the  tree  has  the  appearance 
of  being  "  hide  bound/'  and  ceases  to  grow  almost  entirely. 
The  business  of  the  fruit  grower  is  now  to  rid  his  trees  of 
the  scale,  renovate  the  trees,  and  cause  them  to  begin  life 
anew. 


37 

REMEDIES. 

The  scale  insect  has. become  such  a  nuisance  and  so 
difficult  to  destroy,  that  many  remedies  have  been  pres- 
cribed for  its  extermination.  Hardly  any  two  individuals 
agree  on  the  best  thing  for  the  purpose,  consequently  we 
shall  mention  a  number  which  have  been  recommended. 

The  soap  and  soda  solution  mentioned  on  a  former 
page  has  given  the  best  results  in  our  hands,  and  we  believe 
if  persisted  in,  will  entirely  eradicate  and  exterminate  them 
from  the  grove.  Besides  being  an  excellent  insecticide,  it 
benefits  the  tree  in  various  ways  ;  removes  old  bark,  washes 

the  leaves  from  honey  dew  and  smut,  kills  the  bugs,  and 
stimulates  the  tree  into  activity,  and  causes  it  to  look  green 
and  healthy. 

It  should  be  applied  as  directed,  every  three  or  four 
weeks,  until  the  scale  is  entirely  eradicated. 

Kerosene  has  been  highly  extalled.  It  is  dangerous 
to  apply  in  its  undiluted  state,  but  is  sure  death  to  the  bugs. 
To  a  strong  solution  of  any  kind  of  soap,  add  one  gill  of 
kerosene  to  a  bucket  full  of  the  suds.  Mix  thoroughly 
by  stirring  and  apply  with  a  brush  to  the  trunk,  and  with 
a  syringe  to  top  and  branches.  Stir  the  mixture  often 
while  using. 

Strong  solution  of  whale  oil  soap  is  an  excellent  ap- 
plication, especially  to  young  trees  and  those  in  the  nursery. 
Use  it  often. 

Vinegar  or  acetic  acid,  diluted,  is  said  to  be  an  effect- 
ual remedy. 

Carbolic  acid,  largely  diluted,  has  proved   efficacious. 

Tobacco  decoction  is  used  by  many. 

Many  other  applications  have  been    recommended  ;  in 


short,  almost  every  man  you  meet  knows  the  best  one,  a^rl 
it  is  sure  to  differ  in  some  respects  fr.-m  all  others. 

Remedies  for  the  destruction  of  scale,  are  as  numerous 
as  are  those  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism.  All  are  good  and 
if  persevered  in  will  result  in  success. 

The  best  general  remedy  for  scale,  is,  to  keep  your 
trees  in  vigorous  health  by  thorough  fertilization  and  cul- 
tivation. Stir  the  soil  often  with  the  cultivator  or  hoe ; 
keep  down  the  weeds  and  grass  and  your  grove  will  not 
require  so  many  remedies  to  exterminate  the  insects. 

We  believe  there  are  few  other  insects  that  require 
much  attention.  Squash  bugs,  thrip,  ants  and  green  flies 
are  only  attracted  by  the  secretions  of  insects,  or  the  exu- 
dation of  sweet  fluids  from  the  leaves  or  branches,  and  teh 
collection  of  honey-dew  on  the  leaves. 

The  "mealy  bug,"  is  very  destructive,  but  it  is  classed 
with  the  coecidce,  and  the  same  remedies  will  exterminate 
the  mealy  bug  that  are  used  for  other  scale,  if  thoroughly 
applied,  and  often.  Vinegar  is  used  to  destroy  this  pest  in 
many  countries  of  the  East,  with  very  good  --access. 

There  are  a  few  other  insects  which  attack  the  fruit 
and  leaves,  such  as  the  red  bug,  which  punctures  the  fruit 
in  some  instances  and  localities  ;  the  leaf  notcher  and  the 
leaf  roller;  but  these  do  not  damage  to  any  great  extent, 
and  as  there  are  no  remedies  except  hand-picking  we  pass 
them  over  as  nuisances. 

BARKEN  FRUIT  TrtEES 

In  old  orchards  of  fruit  of  any  kind  may  be  found 
trees  which  seem  to  grow  thriftly,  are  mature  and  of  bear- 
ing age,  yet  seldom  produce  any  fruit.  The  ^ame  will  be 
found  to  occur  on  all  soils  and  situations,  and  among  all 


39 

kinds  and  varieties  of  fruit.  It  is  true  that  some  kinds  of 
fruit  trees  and  some  varieties  of  the  same  kind,  are  more 
subject  to  barrenness  than  others ;  but  the  facts  remain, 
and  no  satisfactory  explanation  has  yet  been  promulgated. 
The  phenomena  has-been  attributed  to  many  causes  by 
various  authors  who  have  experimented  and  written  on  the 
subject,  but  scarcely  any  two  of  them  ascribe  the  fault  t<> 
the  same  conditions. 

The  orange  tree  is  no  exception  to  the  general  rule, 
and  many  large  trees,  which  are  aged  and  thrifty  may  be 
found  scattered  about  in  most  groves,  and  solitary,  which 
have  produced  little  or  no  fruit  and  failed  to  perform  the 
important  functions  which  nature  intended  them  to  fullfilL 
Many  remedies  have  been  recommended  to  cure  the 
evil  by  those  who  have  given  it  much  attention,  such  as 
root  pruning,  summer  pruning,  bending  down  the  branches 
below  the  horizontal  to  check  the  flow  of  sap  upwards  ; 
girdling  and  debarking.  The  first,  is  attended  with  a  vast 
amount  of  labor,  besides  it  has  a  tendency  to  destroy  in  a 
measure  the  equilibrium  and  vitality  of  the  tree.  The  sec- 
ond, is  impracticable  to  any  great  extent,  or  when  applied 
to  large  trees.  The  third  remedy  "girdling,"  seems  the 
most  rational  and  practical  ;  is  attended  with  little  incon- 
venience ;  is  sure  to  accomplish  the  object,  and  is  not  likely 
to  compromise  the  life  or  usefulness  of  the  tree ;  although 
it  has  a  tendency  to  dwarf  it  somewhat. 

The  practice  of  girdling  to  produce  fruitfulness  in  bar- 
ren trees,  arid  also  to  bring  into  early  bearing  arid  ripening, 
of  the  fruit  on  young  trees,  has  been  employed  by  pomo- 
logists,  frequently,  for  the  last  one  hundred  years,  but  riot 
until  recently  has  the  method  come  into  extensive  use  for 
the  purpose.  Some  of  the  extensive  fruit  growers  of  the 


40 

West  are  using  this  method  to  bring  their  young  trees  into 
early  bearing  with  astonishing  success. 

One  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Spaulding,  of  Illinois,  has  an 
apple  grove  of  fourteen  thousand  trees,  and  has  been  ex- 
perimenting with  "girdling"  to  produce  early  fruitfulness 
and  large  and  fine  fruit,  with  such  success,  that  last  year, 
he  girdled  three  thousand  trees  in  his  young  grove.  A 
writer,  who  visited  his  place  recently,  describes  the  result  as 
wonderful — astonishing. 

Alternate  rows  of  young  unbearing  trees  were  girdled 
in  June,  1879,  and  this  year  they  are  loaded  to  the  ground 
with  large,  fine  fruit,  while  trees  along  side  of  them  not 
girdlei,  had  little  or  no  fruit  on. 

The  effect  of  girdling  is  twofold.  When  early  bear- 
ing is  desired,  the  ring  of  bark  should  be  removed  while 
the  tree  is  growing,  the  year  before.  When  increase  in  size 
of  fruit  and  early  ripening  is  the  object  sought,  girdling 
should  be  performed  the  same  year,  after  the  fruit  is  set. 

The  operation  of  "girdling"  consists  in  removing  a 
ring  of  bark  from  one  to  three-eighths  of  au  inch  wide 
entirely  around  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  or  large  branches. 
It  may  be  performed  with  a  knife,  or  saw  with  the  teeth 
set  wide;  but  the  neatest,  cutest  and  most  effectual  little 
implement  for  the  business,  is  a  tool  used  by  mill  and 
lumbermen  for  the  purpose  of  marking  lumber.  This  little 
instrument  is  handy  to  use ;  does  its  work  neatly,  and 
makes  a  clean  cut  one-eighth  of  an  inch  wide  down  to  the 
wood. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  practice  of 
girdling  on  the  orange  tree,  will  prove  as  successful  in  its 
results  as  it  has  in  regard  to  apple,  pear,  peach,  grapp  and 
other  fruits,  and  those  who  have  recalcitrant  orange  tree?, 
which  are  a  way  along  up  in  their  "teens,"  or  out  of  them 


41 

in  regard  to  age,  and  refuse  to  produce  liberally,  can  bring 
them  to  a  realizing  sense  of  their  duty  by  the  process  in 
question 

Objections  will  be  raised  to  the  practice,  undoubtedly, 
as  being  unnatural  and  all  that,  but  the  same  may  be  said 
of  many  other  pomologieal  experiments,  which  have 
resulted  in  success. 

Let  us  live,  in  a  measure,  for  the  present,  and  enjoy 
the  fruits  of  our  labors  as  we  go  along,  and  not  work  and 
wait  through  life  for  the  benefit  wholly  of  our  grand- 
children. 

Those  who  wish  to  try  the  experiment  of  girdling,  and 
are  a  little  doubtful  about  its  utility,  and  liability  to  harm 
the  trees  for  future  usefulness,  may  begin  on  some  of  the 
lower  branches  of  the  tree,  which,  if  the  operation  should 
not  succeed  to  their  satisfaction,  need  to  be  cut  away  in  the 
future.  In  that  way  no  harm  will  have  been  done,  if  the 
process  turns  out  unfavorable. 

Another  method  of  girdling,  or  which  amounts  to  the 
same  thing  in  its  results,  is  performed  by  ligating  the  body  . 
of  the  tree  or  branches,  by  winding  tightly  around  the 
part  to  be  girdled,  a  few  coils  of  copper  or  other  wire  so 
tight  that  the  return  flow  of  sap  will  be  effectually  impe- 
ded. By  this  last  process  the  bark  is  not  mutilated,  but 
where  it  is  thoroughly  done  the  effects  are  about  the  same. 
Some  pomologists  recommend  excessive  fertilizing  ;  enrich- 
ing the  soil  by  cow-penning  and  by  applying  large  quan- 
tities of  other  rich  manures  during  the  winter  months,  con- 
tending that  in  this  way  both  fruit  buds  and  wood  growth 
may  be  had  at  the  same  time,  and  the  "bearing  and  off- 
year"  habits  of  trees  dispensed  with. 

The  practice  may  be  good,  on  very  poor  land,  but  fruit 
produced  by  excessive  fertilization,  is  generally  coarse, 


42 

insipid  and  unsatisfactory.  Girdling  the  orange  tree,  to 
produce  fruit  next  year,  should  be  performed  from  June  to 
September ;  and  to  produce  large  fruit  and  early  ripen- 
ing, the  same  year  in  April,  after  the  young  fruit  is  set. 

OTHER  CITRUS  FRUITS. 

In  former  pages  the  remarks-were  confined  wholly  to 
the  cultivation  of  the  orange.  While  the  orange  is  to  be 
regarded  the  principal  fruit  to  be  depended  on  for  profit, 
yet  other  species  of  the  citrus  family  may  be  cultivated 
for  profit,  ornament  or  curiosity. 

LEMONS. 

The  lemon  is  a  more  tender  plant  than  the  orange,  and 
therefore,  in  its  cultivation,  more  regard  must  be  paid  to 
location  in  order  to  shield  the  trees  from  cold.  In  all 
other  respects  the  lemon  should  be  treated  the  same  as  the 
orange,  except  that  it  requires  less  rich  soil  and  less  fertili- 
zation. The  lemon  is  a  rampant  grower,  and  has  a  tend- 
ency to  straggle,  without  any  regard  to  symmetry  in  its 
shape.  Light  sandy  land,  not  over  rich,  seems  best  adapted 
for  the  lemon,  because  if  the  soil  is  rich  in  plant  food  the 
tree  grows  rapidly  and  unshapely,  the  wood  is  soft  and  suc- 
culent, and  a  light  frost  while  in  this  condition  will  cut 
young  trees  to  the  ground,  and  materially  damage  older 
•nes, 

The  tree  matures  several  years  earlier  than  tlie  orange, 
and  the  first  crops  are  likely  to  yield  large  specimens  of 
fruit,  which  have  thick  rind  and  often  spongy  and  coarse 
pulp.  'These  characteristics  will  gradually  disappear  as 
the  tree  grows  in  years,  when  the  fruit  will  become  of 
ordinary  size  and  quality. 

The  best  lemons  are  those  weighing  about  two.  and  a 


43 

half  to  three  ounces  ;  thin  skin,  oval  shape ;  few  seeds, 
solid  pulp,  strong  acid  juice;  sweet  rind  and  highly  aro- 
matic. Lemons  which  are  large,  thick  skin,  spongy  pulp 
and  bitter  rind,  are  not  marketable ;  hence  it  is  better  to 
procure  trees  budded  with  fruit  of  known  and  tried  quali- 
ties than  to  trust  to  seedlings,  as  they  often  turn  out  to  be 
worthless. 

A  statement  has  lately  been  going  the  rounds  to  the 
effect  that  in  the  gathering  of  lemons  for  market,  a  lemon 
was  ripe  enough  to  gather  when  it  was  large  enough  ;  that 
is,  when  it  had  arrived  at  a  certain  size.  It  has  generally 
been  understood  that  leaves  have  their  time  to  fall,  and 
fruits  a  season  of  maturity ;  and  we  question  whether  a 
lemon  gathered  green,  although  of  a  certain  size,  possesses 
all  the  qualities  requisite  in  a  perfect  fruit.  The  theory 
may  hold  in  trees  of  old  age,  and  among  that  variety 
which  are  said  to  be  ever  bearing,  but  it  is  open  to  doubt. 

The  lemon  tree  is  too  uncertain  in  Florida,  on  account 
of  its  sensitiveness  to  cold,  to  warrant  extensive  planting, 
except  in  very  favored  localities ;  and  besides,  the  profits 
are  likely  to  be  less  than  the  orange,  from  the  fact  that 
large  quantities  are  imported  at  prices  which  are  not  con- 
sidered remunerative  as  compared  with  the  orange. 

However,  a  few  trees  should  be  planted  in  the  most 
favored  localities  about  the  premises,  in  regard  to  the  cold 
waves,  and  moderately  fertilized  and  pruned,  to  produce 

the  best  results. 

.* 

LIMES. 

The  next  fruit  in  importance  to  the  lemon  is  the  lime. 
The  tree  or  bush  is  still  more  sensitive  to  cold  than  the 
lemon,  and  requires  more  care  in  exposed  situations.  The 
fruit  is  generally  small,  tender  rind,  and  does  not  bear 


44 

transportation  very  well ;  hence  but  little  attention  has 
been  given  to  its  cultivation.  It  is  very  wholesome,  strongly 
acid  ;  in  fact,  is  said  to  contain  a  greater  amount  of  citric 
acid  than  the  lemon,  and  is  preferred  to  that  fruit  by  some. 
A  few  trees,  or  rather  bushes,  are  all  that  is  requisite. 

CITRON. 

The  citron  is  a  large  fruit,  having  all  the  character- 
istics of  the  lemon,  and  chiefly  cultivated  for  its  very  thick 
rind,  which  is  preserved  in  sugar  and  forms  the  well  known 
sweet  meat  to  be  found  in  the  shops,  under  the  name  of 
"  preserved  citron."  There  are  several  varieties,  some  of 
which  possess  a  very  bitter  rind  ;  those  having  a  sweet  rind 
are  to  be  preferred.  A  tender  shrub  or  bush. 

SHADDOCK. 

This  is  generally  a  large  fruit,  varying  from  two  to 
eight  pounds  in  weight.  Globular,  white  or  pink  pulp, 
seedy,  juicy  and  disagreeably  sour.  The  pink  variety  is 
the  largest.  Useful  only  when  other  fruits  cannot  be  had, 
and  as  a  curiosity.  A  tender  bush  or  shrub. 

BERGAMOT. 

A  hybrid  of  the  orange  and  lemon.  Small,  yellow  or 
orange  in  color,  thick  skin,  juicy,  sour  sweet  and  flavorless. 
Cultivated  chiefly  for  the  oil,  which  is  distilled  from  the 
rind,  and  is  known  in  perfumery  as  "oil  of  bergamot."  A 
tender  bush. 

KUMQUAT. 

This  is  a  dwarf,  thornless  variety  of  the  orange.  Fruit 
very  small,  oval,  deep  orange  color,  skin  thin  and  sweet ; 
pulp  tender  and  juice  very  acid.  Tree  ornamental  and 
useful  as  a  conserve. 


45 

The  above  includes  about  all  of  the  citrus  which  are 
desirable,  and  all  but  the  lemon,  lime  and  kumquat,  are 

more  ornamental  than  useful. 

The  wild  orange  is  useful  in  the  manufacture  of  mar- 
malade, and  some  attempts  have  been  made  to  utilize  the 
citron  for  a  conserve,  but  without  any  satisfactory  result  as 
far  as  we  have  seen,  the  product  being  flavorless  and 
insipid. 

The  Florida  lemon  is  another, fruit  easily  grown.  It 
is  large,  orange  color  when  ripe ;  rough,  thick,  spongy 
rind ;  sometimes  bitter ;  juice  acid  but  flavorless.  The 
tree  or  shrub  is  a  rampant  grower,  but  tender  like  other 
•lemons.  Nursery-men  sometimes  use  the  seedlings  as  a 
stock  for  budding  the  sweet  orange ;  and  if  budded  low, 
the  trees  grow  rapidly  and  come  into  bearing  much  earlier 
than  when  budded  on  orange  stock. 

Cost  and  Profits  of  Orange  Culture. 

So  much  has  been  written  on  the  cost  of  starting  an 
orange  grove,  and  the  profits  to  be  realized  from  the  sale 
of  the  fruit  when  it  begins  to  bear,  that  it  is  with  a  good 
deal  of  reluctance  we  broach  the  subject.  Those  who  have 
written  heretofore,  usually  have  presented  the  rosy  side  of 
the  picture,  and  forget  to  record  the  failures,  the  disap- 
pointments and  other  contingencies ;  hence,  many  fanciful 
stories  have  been  told,  which  are  calculated  to  mislead  the 
unwary,  and  bring  into  contempt  the  honest  statements  and 
facts  wfiich  govern  the  case.  Extreme  cases  are  pointed 
out,  and  the  stranger  is  made  to  believe  it  is  no  exception 
to  the  general  rule. 

An  orange  tree  will  bear  when  it  has  arrived  at  ma- 
turity, which  is  usually —  if  all  the  conditions  have  been 
favorable — from  the  eighth  to  the  fifteenth  year  from  the 


46 

seed.  Some  varieties,  or  the  seed  from  certain  trees,  will 
reach  the  bearing  age  years  before  the  seed  from  other 
trees.  This  fact  is  not  confined  to  the  orange  tree,  but  is  a 
well  known  physiological  occurrence  in  both  the  vegetable 
and  animal  kingdoms.  We  often  see  in  an  orange  grove 
ten  years  of  age,  a  few  trees  which  have  more  or  less 
fruit  on  ;  while  the  rest  of  the  trees,  seemingly  just  as  large 
and  healthy,  have  none  at  all.  We  are  often  told  that 
after  a  tree  has  borne  its  first  fruit,  it  will  continue  to  dou- 
ble its  yield  every  year  for  a  long  time.  This  statement  is 
not  true,  as  every  one  knows  who  has  much  knowledge  of 
the  laws  which  govern  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Trees  are 
very  likely  to  preserve  the  old  routine  of  bearing  and  off 
bearing  years,  in  spite  of  all  the  theories  and  remedies 
which  can  be  brought  to  bear. 

Some  groves,  if  properly  cared  for,  will  come  into 
profitable  bearing  at  ten  and  twelve  years ;  while  others, 
similarly  situated,  will  not  bear  in  less  than  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  years. 

Land  suitable  for  orange  culture  may  be  had  at  from 
one  dollar  and  a  quarter  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre, 
according  to  location  and  other  contingencies.  Cleared 
land  from  five  to  one  hundred  dollars.  Labor  for  seventy  -  • 
five  cents  to  one  dollar  per  day.  Five  year  old  trees, 
twenty-five  to  fifty  dollars  per  hundred.  Good,  budded 
to  the  best  varieties,  thrifty  trees,  for  fifty  dollars  per 
hundred. 

A  grove  of  five  acres, — five  hundred  trees, — if  properly 
cared  for,  fertilized,  fenced  and  pruned,  will  cost  at  the 
least  calculation  one  thousand  dollars,  and  it  may  cost 
much  more  at  the  end  of  five  years.  Orange  groves  do 
not  grow  by  magic,  neither  are  they  purchased  for  a  song- 


47 

When  your  trees  are  ten  years  old, — five  years  old 
from  planting, — if  all  the  conditions  have  been  favorable, 
they  will  likely  begin  to  bear,  and  at  twelve  to  fifteen 
years,  or  seven  to  ten  years  after  planting,  may  be  expected 
to  yield  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  per  tree. 

Frost  sometimes  interferes  with  the  best  regulated 
groves.  Wind,  rain  and  drouth,  have  been  known  to 
shorten  the  crop  ;  insects  are  troublesome, — so  that  it  is  to 
be  expected  you  will  meet  with  disappointments  in  orange 
growing  as  well  as  in  other  pursuits. 

A  grove  of  five  hundred  or  one  thousand  trees,  at 
twenty  years  old,  if  well  cultivated,  will  yield  an  income 
sufficient  to  satisfy  the  wants  of  any  one  not  over-extrava- 
gant in  his  notions. 

GATHERING   AND    CURING   ORANGES. 

One  of  the  most  important  features  in  successful  orange 
culture,  is  gathering  the  fruit  and  curing  it  for  market. 
However  lucky  you  may  be  in  bringing  your  grove  to  early 
and  full  bearing,  if  the  gathering  and  curing  of  the  crop  is 
not  intelligently  conducted  your  profits  will  not  meet  your 
most  sanguine  expectations. 

The  orange,  when  under-ripe,  is  plump  and  solid  ;  the 
skin  is  hard  and  largely  composed  of  water,  and  at  this 
stage  if  "bruised,  or  the  skin  abraided  in  any  manner,  decay 
soon  begins  and  extends,  and  in  a  very  few  days  the  fruit  ig 
rotten  and  worthless. 

The  fruit  should  never  be  pulled  from  the  stem.  The 
stem  of  the  orange  is  hard  and  tough,  and  the  fruit  adheres 
to  it  with  wonderful  tenacity. 

In  all  cases  where  it  is  desired  to  preserve  the  fruit, 
the  stem  sheuld  be  cut  with  a  knife  or  shears,  the  fruit 
handled  carefully  without  bruising,  and  carried  directly 
to  the 


48 

DRYING   HOUSE. 

The  drying  house  should  be  a  building  prepared  for 
the  purpose,  light  and  airy,  and  with  means  to  close  it 
tightly  in  case  of  cold  or  storm.  We  have  stated  that  the 
rind  of  the  orange,  at  the  usual  time  of  gathering,  was 
hard  and  contained  much  water;  and  it  is  for  the  purpose 
of  getting  rid  of  the  water  in  the  rind  that  a  drying  house 
is  necessary.  Hence,  tne  fruit  should  be  gathered  in  a 
clear,  dry  day,  and  placed  in  such  a  position  as  to  hasten 
the  evaporation  of  water  from  the  rind,  which  when  thor- 
oughly accomplished,  renders  the  fruit  smooth  and  elastic, 
toughens  the  skin  and  prepares  it  for  a  long  journey. 

The  drying  house  should  be  constructed  with  shelves 
or  stalls,  about  three  feet  wide,  running  along  the  sides  of 
the  building,  the  first  shelf  two  feet  from  the  floor,  and 
then  one  foot  above  that  another,  and  so  on  to  the  ceiling 
above,  if  necessary.  The  bottom  or  shelf  should  be  com- 
posed of  slats  one  and  a  half  inches  wide,  and  placed  one 
and  a  half  inches  apart,  with  the  edges  or  corners  beveled  off 
so  as  not  to  mar  or  injure  the  fruit.  Now  (rim  off  the  stems 
vsmooth  and  close  to  the  fruit  with  the  shears,  and  place  the 
oranges  on  the  slats  only  one  tier  deep.  Here  they  are  left 
to  dry  from  two  to  six  days,  or  longer  if  desired  ;  and  when 
sufficiently  dried,  which  can  be  known  by  a  little  experi- 
ence, they  are  ready  to  pack  for  shipping. 

The  practice  formerly  in  vogue,  and  which  is  still  con- 
tinued to  some  extent  here  by  some  shippers,  was  to  gather 
the  fruit  and  pile  it  into  heaps  of  several  bushels,  and 
eighteen  or  twenty  inches  high,  covered  with  blankets,  and 
leave  the  fruit  in  the  heaps  till  it  underwent  a  "sweat"  of  a 
few  days,  and  then  uncover,  dry  and  pack.  This  sweating 
process  would  seem  to  us  the  very  worst  treatment  that  the 


49 

fruit  could  be  subjected  to,  as  the  process  would  certainly 
soften  the  skin  and  render  it  more  susceptible  of  decay. 

What  is  required  in  the  premises  is,  to  evaporate  the 
water  from  the  skin  and  thereby  render  it  tough  and  elastic. 
This,  the  drying  process  by  the  slatted  shelf  system,  does 
to  perfection,  and  the  fruit  thus  prepared  may  be  packed 
and  shipped  to  Europe  with  every  assurance  of  success. 

The  drying  house  should  be  supplied  with  counter, 
tables  and  such  other  appliances  as  the  ingenuity  of  the 
packer  may  suggest,  for  the  purpose  of  assorting  the  fruit, 
wrapping  and  boxing. 

BOXING    THE    FRUIT. 

The  ordinary  orange  box  is  12x12x25  inches,  inside 
measure,  with  a  partition  in  the  middle,  each  compartment 
measuring  j.ist  one  cubic  foot.  The  end  pieces  and  parti- 
tion are  one  inch  thick,  which  should  be  planed  smooth  f 
the  sides  should  be  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  three  and  a 
half  inches  wide,  planed,  so  that  three  slats  will  form  a 
side,  leaving  a  half  inch  space  between  the  slats  for  the 
purpose  of  ventilation.  The  boxes  should  be  nailed  together 
firmly,  leaving  one  side  off  until  the  fruit  has  been  placed 
therein. 

When  the  fruit  has  become  sufficiently  cured,  it  should 
be  assorted  into  two  or  three  grades.  Each  grade  should 
be  made  up  of  fruit  of  the  same  ripeness,  size,  color  and 
consistence,  and  marked  accordingly.  Each  orange  should 
be  wrapped  in  maiiilla  paper  and  placed  carefully  and 
snugly  in  the  box  layer  by  layer  until  the  box  is  full,  and 
the  last  layer  should  project  above  the  box  about  an  inch, 
so  that  when  tho  cover  is  placed  and  nailed  it  will  cause 
the  fruit  to  be  pressed  firmly  together,  which  will  prevent 
shucking  loosely  around  when  handling.  No  fear  of  crush- 
ing the  fruit  by  this  means.  It  will  carry  much  better,  and 
arrive  at  its  destination  perfect. 


50 

Too  much  care  can  not  be  exercised  in  assorting  and 
selecting  the  fruit,  as  one  imperfect  or  decayed  specimen 
may  contaminate  the  whole  and  result  in  much  loss.  The 
oranges  should  be  counted  and  the  number  marked  on  the 
box,  together  with  the  grade.  The  box  should  now  be 
firmly  strapped  at  each  end,  and  if  to  be  transported  far, 
it  would  be  better  and  safer  to  strap  around  the  middle. 

There  can  be  no  question  abcut  the  superiority  of  the 
drying  process  of  curing  the  fruit,  over  the  "sweating" 
process.  The  first,  has  a  tendency  to  toughen  the  skin  ,and 
tissues  by  evaporating  the  aqueous  fluids,  while  the  other 
softens  the  skin  by  a  heating  and  fermenting  action, 
thereby  hastening  decay  in  the  tissue,  which  was  de- 
signed to  protect ;  and  no  one,  we  think,  who  will  give 
the  subject  careful  consideration,  and  view  it  in  the  light 
which  chemistry  affords,  will  hesitate  for  a  moment  to  con- 
cede the  drying  process  to  be  the  better  wa^T.  An  orange 
which  is  ripe  and  everyway  perfect,  placed  in  a  light,  dry, 
airy  situation,  will  keep  for  months,  or  until  it  shrivels  and 
dries  to  a  crisp ;  while  one  which  has  passed  through  the 
sweating  process,  will  soon  begin  to  soften  and  the  skin 
first,  and  then  the  pulp  melt  into  one  mass  of  decomposi- 
tion, The  one  mode  is  common  sense  ;  the  other  nonsense. 
Light  and  a  dry  atmosphere  have  a  wonderful  preservative 
power  ;  while  darknesi,  warmth  and  moisture  are  equally 
effective  in  promoting  decay. 

SOME   AFTER  THOUGHTS. 

In  speaking  of  the  different  mode  of  treatment  which 
a  growing  tree  required  from  a  bearing  tree,  it  was  stated 
that  from  the  time  the  tree  was  planted  till  the  bearing  age 
fertilizers  rich  in  nitrogenous  compounds  were  required  to 
push  the  growing  tree.  Well  rotted  stable  manure,  com- 


51 

posted  with  muck  is  undoubtedly  the  best,  but  where  that 
can  not  be  obtained,  other  materials,  such  as  dried  blood, 
guano,  fish  scrap,  raw  bone  and  the  like  made  into  a  com- 
post with  muck  will  answer  very  well.  The  amount  neces- 
sary can  only  be  known  by  trial. 

If  the  land  is  poor  and  sandy,  a  liberal  supply  must 
be  used,  but  if  a  loam  or  clay  soil  which  will  retain  fertili- 
zers without  leaching,  less  will  be  required. 

When  the  tree  has  been  pushed  until  it  begins  to  bear, 
a  change  in  the  tieatment  should  be  pursued.  The  tree 
no  longer  requires  nitrogenous  and  carbanacious  plant 
food,  but  such  materials  as  contain  potash,  phosphoric  acid, 
soda,  and  sulphuric  acid.  These  materials  are  contained 
in  all  soils  which  have  once  grown  hard  wood  timber,  and 
which  have  a  liberal  supply  of  clay  in  their  composition. 
Such  soils  are  found  in  high,  hard  wood  hammocks,  and 
they  require  less  attention  to  fertilizing  under  any  circum- 
stances. 

The  fruit  of  an  orange  tree  bearing  one  thousand  ordi- 
nary oranges,  will  weigh  about  five  hundred  pounds;  and 
of  this  there  will  be  found  four  pounds  of  potash,  three 
pounds  of  soda,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  phosphoric  acid, 
some  lime,  with  tracts  of  iron  and  magnesia.  All  soils 
contain  more  or  less  of  these  materials  under  all  circum- 
stances ;  but  t&iidy,  leachy  soils  are  likely  to  be  deficient. 
Heriec  the  necessity  of  annual  application  of  these  manu- 
real  substances  if  we  wish  to  obtain  the  best  results.  These 
elements  are  most  readily  found  fit  for  immediate  use  in 
the  following  :  Acid  superphospate  of  lime,  fine  ground 
bone,  wood  ashes,  sulphate  or  muriate  of  potash,  sal  soda 
and  common  salt.  An  annual  dressing  of  some  of  these 
materials  which  are  thought  most  required,  will  produce  a 
wonderful  effect  on  the  iruitfulness  of  the  grove  and 


52 

quality  of  the  fruit.  Soils  which  contain  these  elements, 
naturally,  are  to  be  preferred  when  locating  your  grove. 
The  trees  will  grow  more  uniform  and  thrifty,  bear  better 
and  more  fruit,  and  attain  a  greater  longevity. 

The  subject  of  thorough  fertilization  and  cultivation 
occupies  much  space  in  this  little  volume,  the  importance 
of  which  will  be  apparent  to  those  who  give  it  the  most 
heed;  and  success  in  orange  culture  will  !>e  proportionate 
with  those  who  make  of  it  the  most  intelligent  and  prac- 
tical application. 

ORIGIN    OF    VARIETIES. 

Very  little  has  been  said  in  this  work  respecting  the 
origin  of  some  of  our  best  fruit.  In  a  practical  point  of 
view,  perhaps  it  is  not  necessary ;  the  main  object  of  the 
grower  being  to  obtain  the  best  varieties,  no  matter  what 
or  whence  their  origin.  But  there  are  those  who  may  take 
some  interest  in  the  matter,  and  consequently,  we  will  grat- 
ify them  to  the  extent  of  our  knowledge.  Many  people, 
we  may  say  most,  have  an  idea  that  because  Florida  pro- 
duces the  most  superior  oranges  in  the  world,  that  of  neces- 
sity, they  must  have  originated  here,  but  such  is  not  a 
fact.  The  best  varieties  we  have,  had  their  origin  else- 
where. Magnum  Bonum  and  Homosassa  come  from  South 
or  Central  America.  Blood  orange  is  native  of  Malta, 
Navel  is  a  native  of  Brazil.  Sugar-Sweet,  Sweet  Saville, 
Moore's  Thoruless  and  Seedless  are  of  Spanish  origin.  St. 
Michaels  is  native  of  the  Azores,  Mandarin,  Tangerine 
and  their  cougeueres,  we  believe  to  be  natives  of  Japan, 
and  belong  to  the  species  Citrus  Aurantium  Japonicum. 

A  friend  of  the  writer,  Mr.  Harry  Comstock,  of  New 
York,  a  man  of  close  observation  and  unquestioned  integ- 
rity, who  spent  several  years  in  China  and  Japan,  informed 


53 

the  writer  recently,  that  the  noble  orange  of  China,  the  one 
most  highly  esteemed  by  that  people,  and  called  by  them 
Mandarin,  is  a  small,  globular,  smooth,  thin-rinded  fruit, 
with  the  pulp  adhering  closely  and  firmly  to  the  rind  ;  and, 
that  the  loose-rinded  orange  that  goes  by  the  name  of  Tan- 
gerine and  Mandarin  here,  is  not  common  in  China,  and 
considered  of  little  account,  compared  with  the  thin- 
skinned,  smooth  fruit  of  that  country  Gallesio,  also,  gives 
the  same  description  of  the  China  orange. 

Mr.  Comstock  further  informs  us  that  the  loose-rinded 
orange  is  undoubtedly  native  to  Japan  ;  that  it  arrives  at 
its  greatest  perfection  there,  and  is,  par  excellence,  the 
orange.  Judge  Van  Valkenburg,  who  was  formerly  Min- 
ister to  Japan,  and  Dr.  Geo.  K.  Hall,  who  has  spent  many 
years  in  that  country,  confirm  Mr.  Comstock's  views  on  the 
subject,  in  the  main.  Sateuma — formerly  noticed  herein, 
belongs  to  this  class,  and  bids  fair  to  rival  any  other  orange 
of  the  loose-rinded  or  kid-glove  variety. 

The  Japanese  and  Chinese  dwarf  their  fruit  trees  by 
budding  on  some  slow-growing  stock,  and  produce  orange 
trees  grown  in  pots,  only  two  or  three  feet  high,  and  bear- 
ing hundreds  of  fruits  to  a  tree. 

Our  Northern  friends,  by  adopting  the  Eastern 
method,  could  have  quite  an  orange  grove  in  their  conserv 
atories. 

The  stock  chiefly  used  for  dwarfing  the  orange  is  the 
Citrus  Tnfaliata,  a  hardy  shrub  of  the  citrus  family,  which 
is  well  adapted  for  the  purpose.  To  Dr.  Geo.  R.  Hall,  is 
due  the  credit  of  introducing  into  this  country  many  rare 
and  valuable  plants,  from  Japan,  among'  which  are  several 
specimens  and  varieties  of  the  orange  tribe,  this  among  the 
number. 


54 

PROPAGATING   AND    BUDDING. 

The  orange  is  propagated  by  seeds,  layering,  cuttings 
and  .grafting  or  budding.  The  object  of  raising  plants 
from  seed  is  to  furnish  stock  for  budding  and  for  obtaining 
new  varieties.  Seedlings  do  not  generally  come  in  bearing 
with  any  degree  of  regularity ;  some  trees  will  bear  at 
seven  or  eight  years  old,  and  all  the  way  up  to  twenty  and 
twenty-five  years  ;  hence  the  necessity  of  budding  or  pro- 
curing budded  trees  when  starting  a  grove,  if  early  fruiting 
is  desired 

The  operation  of  budding  is  very  easy  and  simple,  and 
maybe  performed  by  any  one  having  a  little  tact  and 
patience.  The  best  time  to  bud  is  when  the  sap  is  in  brisk 
motion.  March,  in  this  climate,  is  usually  chosen,  but  it 
mav  be  performed  in  any  month  when  the  sap  flows  freely. 

The  operation  consists  in  making  a  vertical  incision, 
where  the  bud  is  to  be  inserted,  about  one  inch  long,  through 
the  bark  down  to  the  wood,  and  a  cross  or  horizontal  in- 
cision at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  vertical  cut,  that  is  in 
the  form  of  an  inverted  letter  T,  thus,  £.  Raise  the  angu- 
lar corners  of  the  cut  bark  slightly  ;  prepare  the  bud  by 
cutting  it  from  the  stick  a  ha'f-inch  above  and  below  the 
bud,  and  crowd  it  upwards  into  the  slit  prepared  for  it. 
Tie  the  bud  firmly  in  its  place  by  wrapping  it  with  candlc- 
wicking,  bass,  or  strips  of  clo  h.  Thirty  minutes'  practice 
with  an  experienced  budder  will  impart  more  information 
than  reading  volumes  on  the  subject.  The  other  modes  of 
propagation  are  seldom  practiced  in  this  country. 

FORF8T    PROTECTION. 

We  cannot  close  this  little  volume  without  again  urg- 
ing upon  orange  growers  the  absolute  necessity  of  forest 
protection  to  the  grove.  It  is  an  easy  matter  when  se^ct- 
ing  your  location  to  choose  a  spot  protected  on  the  wind- 


55 

ward  side  of  your  grove;  or,  on  that  side  from  which  come 
the,  prevailing  winds  or  gales.  In  East  Florida  the  prevail- 
ing winds  and  gales  of  long  duration  are  from  the  north- 
east, east  and  southeast.  On  the  Gulf  coast,  some  of  the 
gales  come  from  the  west,,  south  and  southwest.  It  is  bet- 
ter to  be  protected  on  all  sides  by  tall  forest  trees,  if  possi- 
sible.  In  all  orange-producing  countries  one  of  the  requi- 
sites considered  of  special  importance  is,  the  protection  of 
the  grove  from  high  winds  arid  gales.  This  is  accomplished 
by  the  erection  of  high  walls,  planting  belts  of  forest  trees 
locating  the  grove  in  sheltered  valleys,  or  on  leeward  side 
of  mountains. 

Dr.  C.  J.  Kenworthy,  who  has  travelled  extensively 
through  the  orange-growing  countries  of  the  world,  in- 
formed the  writer  that  the  practice  of  protecting  the  orange 
groves  from  the  effects  of  wind-storms,  is  universal ;  and 
is  considered  of  vital  necessity  wnerever  the  business  is 
prosecuted  successfully. 

During  the  late  gale  of  August  29,  1880,  which  vis- 
ited the  State  of  Florida,  a  grove  situated  near  the  coast, 
on  Indian  river,  which  was  not  adequately  protected  on  the 
windward  side,  suffered  a  loss  of  40,000  oranges,  besides 
damaging  the  trees  to  a  fearful  extent,  by  uprooting,  wing- 
ing and  twisting  the  branches,  whipping  off  the  leaves,  etc. 
All  this  might  have  been  averted  if  the  grove  had  been 
located  with  a  view  to  protection  from  wind.  Other 
groves  on  Indian  river,  and  throughout  the  State,  in  the 
track  of  the  storm,  suffered  more  or  less,  in  proportion  as 
they  were  exposed  to  the  hurricane  winds  and  rain.  Thou- 
sands of  dollars  worth  of  property  was  destroyed,  which,  if 
the  proper  precautions  had  been  observed  when  locating  or 
planting  the  grove,  might  have  been  saved. 


56 

In  East  Florida  wind-storms  sometimes  spring  from 
any  point  of  the  compass,  but  these,  except  the  easterly, 
are  of  short  duration.  The  long-continued  gales  are  chiefly 
from  an  easterly  direction.  In  September,  1879,  a  high 
wind  from  the  northeast,  accompanied  with  rain,  prevailed 
for  nearly  three  weeks,  and  the  result  was,  that  trees  ex- 
posed in  that  direction  were  nearly  denuded  of  their  foliage, 
which,  of  course,  was  highly  detrimental  to  the  health  of 
the  tree,  besides  the  loss  of  fruit  which  resulted. 

Many  writers  on  orange  culture  recommend  locating  a 
grove  in  a  forest  only  partially  cleared  of  the  timber,  in 
order  to  furnish  partial  shade  for  the  young  trees  ;  and 
also  to  shield  them  from  harm,  from  violent  wind-storms. 

An  occasional  forest  tree  left  in  the  grove,  or  even 
planted  at  the  time  of  planting  the  oranga  trees,  will  be  of 
great  value  as  wind-breaks.  Some  trees  are  better  for  the 
purpose  than  others.  One  species  of  the  live  oak  ;  the  one 
having  a  fine  bark,  tall-growing,  and  deep-rooted,  is  the 
best,  as  it  out  grows  the  orange  rapidly,  and  its  roots  per- 
meate deeply  into  the  soil,  not  interfering  with  the  growth 
of  the  orange  in  the  least.  Water  oaks  are  iut  suitable,  as 
their  roots  run  near  the  surface ;  so  with  many  other  trees. 
Those  should  be  chosen  for  the  purpose  of  promiscuous 
planting  which  grow  rapidly  tall,  and  root  deeply.  If  the 
grove  is  planted  in  the  open  field,  wind-breaks  should  be 
planted  at  the  same  time.  Any  kind  of  evergreen  forest 
trees  may  be  planted  in  double  rows,  such  as  the  various 
oaks,  pines,  cedars,  etc,,  which  will  grow  rapidly  and  bo 
long-'ived. 

The  tree  which  we  balieve  to  be  the  best  adapted  for 
the  purpose  of  a  wind-break  for  an  orange  grove,  and  for  a 
genoral  shade  tree  is  the  Carolina  cherry,  Cerasus  Oaroli- 


67 

niana ;  or,  as  it  is  erroneously  called  in  Florida,  wild  olive. 

This  is  an  evergreen  tree,  a  rapid  grower,  and  forms 
one  of  the  most  symmetrical  and  beautiful  shade  trees  in 
nature.  The  head  of  the  tree  is  full  and  dense,  leaves  a 
dark,  shining  green,  never  changing  color  nor  falling  off 
until  new  ones  are  formed.  The  tree  is  hardy,  free  from 
disease,  and  if  planted  in  a  generous  soil  will  reach  a  height 
of  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  in  ten  years.  Two  rows  of 
trees,  ten  feet  apart,  and  twenty  feet  apart  in  the  rows, 
planted  alternately,  will,  in  a  few  years,  form  a  dense  wind- 
break, and  present  a  line  of  beauty  pleasing  to  behold. 

The  only  objection  to  this  tree  is  its  disposition  to  send 
up  sprouts  and  suckers  from  the  roots.  It  is  a  shallow- 
rooted  tree,  that  is,  the  feeding  roots  run  near  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  consequently  it  would  not  be  advisable  to  plant 
anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  an  orange  tree. 

Again  we  say,  plant  timber  belts  around  your  orange 
grove.  If  this  one  important  feature  is  neglected,  you  will, 
in  all  probability,  have  cause  for  regret  in  the  future. 

ORANGE   INSECTS. 

Since  the  foregoing  pages  were  written,  Mr.  Wm.  !!• 
Ashraead,  Entomologist  to  the  Florida  Fruit-Growers'  As- 
sociation, has  issued  a  very  comprehensive  and  illustrated 
work  on  the  injurious  and  beneficial  insects  found  on  the 
orange  trees  of  Florida. 

This  work  supplies  a  long-felt  want,  and  will  be  of 
vast  importance  to  the  orange  interests  of  the  State.  Every 
one  owning  an  orange  grove,  or  who  contemplates  the  same, 
who  desires  to  study  the  history,  habits,  and  modus  oper- 
andi  of  the  insects,  should  be  supplied  with  this  valuable 
book. 


58 

THE   COLD    WAVE    OF    DECEMBER,    1880. 

The  orange  growers  of  Florida  are  again  called  upon 
to  record  another  visitation  of  frosty  weather,  which  for 
severity  excells  any  one  experienced  here  within  the  last 
ten  years. 

In  December,  1870,  the  thermometer  marked  about  the 
same  figures,  as  in  the  same  month  in  1880,  and  the  dam- 
age done  to  the  young-growing  trees  at  the  former  freeze 
was  much  greater  than  now. 

In  the  freeze  of  1870  the  freezing  cold  weather  contin- 
ued for  six  days:  freezing  every  night,  with  bright,  sun- 
shiny days;  whereas,  the  intense  frost  of  the  late  cold  snap 
lasted  but  one  night  and  day,  and  the  weather  continued 
cool,  cloudy  and  rainy  for  two  weeks  afterwards,  which 
was  favorable. 

Like  other  visitations  of  the  frost  king,  some  locali- 
ties were  more  lightly  touched  than  others;  but  from  ac- 
counts received,  nearly  all  portions  of  the  State  north  of 
the  twenty-eighth  parallel,  and  some  places  even  further 
south,  were  more  or  less  scorched  ;  however,  in  the  north- 
ern and  middle  counties,  the  thermometer  ranged  lowest, 
and  the  damage  done  will  likely  correspond,  at  this  season 
of  the  year.  A  severe  frost  in  February  is  more  likely  to 
do  damage  further  south  on  account  of  the  trees  being  more 
forward  in  leaf  and  blossom. 

Those  who  contend  for  the  "frost  line,"  below  which 
bananas,  pine  apples,  guavas,  and  other  strictly  tropical 
fruits,  can  be  cultivated  without  protection  frp.m  frost,  will 
be  obliged  to  move  a  little  farther  down  the  peninsula. 
Frost  is  reported  to  have  occurred  at  Chuckalnskee,  below 
the  26th  parallel.  Although  the  damage  done  by  the 
freeze  of  December  30th,  1880,  has  been  great,  especially 


59 

to  those  having  ungathered  fruit  frozen,  yet  there  seems  not 
much  reason  for  discouragement.  The  orange  trees  have 
suffered  but  little,  except  the  shedding  of  the  leaves  on  the 
older  trees;  and  the  young  trees  with  late  grown  shoots  will 
be  likely  to  wilt  back  to  ihe  older  and  tougher  wood.  We 
think  few  of  the  young  trees  are  killed  out-right,  and  all 
should  be  encouraged  to  bring  their  groves  to  healthy  and 
successful  bearing,  and  trust  that  the  frost  king,  hereafter, 
will  make  his  visits  few  and  far  between. 

Those  having  bearing  groves,  need  have  no  fear 
for  future  crops  of  fruit ;  for  in  Florida  the  crop  is  suffir 
ciently  mature  by  the  first  to  the  twenty-fifth  of  December, 
before  the  period  of  killing  frosts,  to  gather  and  house,  and 
if  fruit  houses  are  constructed  on  correct  principles,  like  the 
one  described  on  a  foregoing  page,  the  fruit  may  be  gath- 
ered and  kept  for  many  weeks  and  months,  and  then  be  in 
better  condition  to  ship  than  when  freshly  gathered  from 
the  tree. 

We  think  the  orange  growers  of  Florida  have  little 
cause  for  discouragement,  and  every  inducement  to  con- 
tinue and  persevere  in  the  good  work  until  their  efforts 
shall  be  crowned  with  success.  The  late  cold  wave  which 
swept  over  the  Slate  has  demonstrated  some  facts  hereto- 
fore not  well  understood  in  regard  to  the  different  species 
of  the  citrus  family  to  withstand  freezing.  The  lime, 
lemon  and  shaddock,  have  suffered  severely  in  both  fruit 
and  wood ;  the  sweet  orange  trees,  both  seedlings  and  bud- 
ded, range  next ;  the  wild  orange  suffered  least,  scarcely 
shedding  its  leaves  in  exposed  situations;  while  the  Sat- 
suma,  or  Japan  orange  tree,  heretofore  described,  was  not 
affected  in  the  least,  not  even  the  leaves  turning  yellow  or 
dropping  from  the  branches. 

Dr.  Hall  informed  the  writer  that  at  his  place,  on  Fort 
George  island,  near  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Johns  river,  at  this 
writing  (January  15th),  while  all  other  orange  trees  have 
shed  their  leaves  and  the  late  growth  or  angular  branches 
have  been  killed, — yet  the  Satsuma  seems  not  to  have  been 
affected  in  anv  respect,  and  is  as  green  and  flourishing,  both 
imported  and'budded  trees,  as  before  the  frost. 

Mr.  A.  I.  Bidwell,  also,  has  observed  and  noted  the 
same  peculiarities  in  regard  to  the  Satsuma. 


60 

These  facts  in  retpect  to  the  ability  of  different  species 
of  citrus  to  endure  a  low  temperature,  is  a  matter  of  much 
importance  to  those  planting  groves,  and  should  be  taken 
into  consideration  when  selecting  stocks  and  varieties  to  be 
planted  in  exposed  situations.  The  sweet  orange,  budded 
on  lemon  stocks,  although  making  rapid  and  large  growth, 
have  suffered  more  than  on  any  other ;  hence,  all  thiigs 
considered,  the  wild  orange  stock  is  to  be  preferred  for 
budding  the  sweet  orange.  For  hardiness  and  ability  to 
flourish  on  any  soil,  wet  or  dry,  rich  or  poor,  the  wild 
stock  is  the  best. 

CONCLUSION. 

The  writer  desires  to  state  that  in  preparing  this  little 
work  for  the  press,  no  particular  style  or  phraseology  has 
been  attempted,  but  on  the  other  hand,  he  has  endeavored 
to  present  facts  as  they  appeared,  in  as  plain  and  direct  a 
manner  as  possible.  He  has  strenuously  avoided  the  use 
of  all  technical  terms,  and  striven  to  present  his  ideas  in 
language  that  all  could  understand. 

It  is  not  pretended  that  this  book  presents  all  the  facts 
worth  knowing  in  the  culture  of  the  orange.  There  are 
many  things  yet  to  learn.  Neither  is  it  claimed  that  the 
writer's  mode  of  culture  is  the  best.  Others,  by  pursuing 
a  somewhat  different  course  may  reach  satisfactory  results. 

But  after  some  years  of  close  attention  and  experi- 
ence, with  a  fair  share  of  success,  he  believes  his  concln 
sions  are  entitled  to  some  degree  of  consideration.  It  is 
believed,  with  his  present  knowledge  of  orange  culture,  the 
writer  could  accomplish  as  much,  or  more  in  six  years, 
than  he  has  in  the  last  ten ;  and  that  any  one  who  will  fol- 
low the  hints  herein  set  forth  may  succeed  equally  well. 

With  these  remarks,  this  little  volume  is  respectfully 
submitted  to  the  scrutiny  of  an  intelligent  and  liberal  pub- 
lic. 

FLORIDA. 

"  Know'st  thou  the  land  where  the  lemon  trees  bloom, 
Where  the  gold  orange  glows  in  the  deep  thicket's  gloom, 
Where  a  wind  ever  soft  from  the  blue  heaven  blows, 
And  the  groves  are  of  laurel,  and  myrtle  and  rose  ?" 


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Every   Orange  Grower    Should  Have  One 

'    ORA1VOE    IIS  SECTS." 

A  treatise  on  the  Injurious  and  Beneficial  Insects  found  on  the  Orange  Trees  of 
Florida ;    with  four   original    photo-lithographic    plates,   numerous    figures,  and 
twenty-thr<  ewood  cuts,  illustrating  the  different  insects  treated  of,  has  just  been 
published  by  Wm.  H.  Ashmead.     Every  orange  grower  should  have  one. 
Mailed  to  aay  address,  postage  free,  upon  receipt  of  price,  $1  50.    Address 

ASHMEAD    BROTHERS, 
21  West  Bay  Street,  Jacksonville,  Florida. 


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